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The Pot Still Column: Episode 16 Booker's Bourbon "Bardstown Batch" 2021-03 Proof: 125.5 Age: 6 Years, 5 Months Source: Jim Beam Distillery (Clermont, Kentucky) Price: $70.00 (2021) The color is moderately dark, but I swear the black wax makes it look darker. As far as presentation goes, Bookers is notoriously successful. The brand offers a classic bottle shape adorned with a rustic set of paper labels, the top of which contains details about the specific batch. The top label changes color with every release, and displays the batch number (2021-03), batch name (Bardstown Batch), proof (62.75%), and age to the day (6 years, 5 months, zero days). While it isn't much to ask for a bourbon to transparently display its production details, most bottles don't bother to include that information. For bookers to include this consistently and on the front of the bottle is a huge plus in its favor. The presentation is topped off (literally) by an easy-peel wax seal, and the wax extends far enough down the neck to cover the Bookers medallion and ribbon that garnishes the front of the bottle. I'm not sure I've written such a long paragraph on a bottle's looks before, so I must really like it. The nose is very bold, making itself known right away. This is an undervalued element of the whiskey drinking experience--- I don't personally enjoy having to rent a backhoe to dig notes out of the nose. Lots of bits and pieces jump out of the glass at once, throwing me off balance as I try to pin any one of them down. There is peanut brittle, a combination of thick caramel and dusty peanuts. There is also strong barrel char, producing a faux-smokiness, and oak barrel smell. I wouldn't say there is no ethanol on the nose, leaving some room for improvement, but the way it presents itself is well-incorporated into the overall profile and leaves little disconnect. Based on the nose alone, any bourbon drinker that doesn't hate peanuts is going to love this. The taste is just as bold as the nose, and while there is no unpleasant ethanol flavor, the high ABV takes root on the tongue with a slight sting. On the bourbon spectrum, this leans heavily toward the "dark and dusty" side, not displaying too many sour or bright tones. Still, it isn't entirely dark in profile, and some shininess comes through from beneath the dominant nut flavors. Beyond that, this is a very approachable and down-the-middle bourbon loaded with the usual burnt caramels and oak flavors. The finish is multilayered and long. The initial flavor dissipates pretty soon after swallowing, but the sensory effects linger much longer. A small burst of flavor chases the initial exhalation from the nose, and all that is left is an oaky paste on the palate. While that isn't the most romantic description, I won't pretend to be the biggest fan of oaky finishes. Despite my reservations, I am finding myself enjoying this particular example. I keep waiting for the bitter and astringent finish that so many barrel proof bourbons have, but it never comes. There is a concentration of oak on the center of the tongue that lasts for minutes, but it is a very neutral flavor--- not good or bad. Closing Impression: This was pretty good! This bourbon would make an excellent benchmark for other bourbons of this style, as it provides great concentration of flavor, a bold nose, and an unimposing finish. I have found myself enjoying this pour quite a bit, but it will probably be pushed back into the second or third row of my shelves, unlikely to be touched for a while. While this review isn't meant to be a comparison, but an isolated evaluation, it is hard to ignore the massive elephant in the room. Knob Creek Single Barrel, another high proof bourbon from Jim Beam, provides an equally tasty experience for almost half the price. Booker's is great when judged on its own, but its flavors turn a bit ashy in the mouth when price enters the equation. With Beam's suggested retail price nearing $100, the price is quickly outgrowing the bottle's worth as a consumable product, especially considering Knob Creek Single Barrel's $55 price tag. The third Booker's release of 2021, the "Bardstown Batch," lands squarely in the "good" category, earning a score of 81/100. The nose was its best feature, dense and expressive, the flavor followed closely, and the finish was only minimally lackluster. The overall experience was predominantly positive, although it doesn't encourage a second pour. Nose: 85/100 Flavor: 82/100 Finish: 76/100 Overall: 81/100

Pours Unknown :Sample #1 - Introducing Pours Unknown Allow me to introduce "Pours Unknown," the latest segment of The Pot Still Column. Pours Unknown will consist of short reviews of blind samples provided to me by friends, enemies, fans, critics, readers, and the illiterate alike. The segment will include the blind review, scoring, and a guess about the sample's contents. More often than not, I will be embarrassingly incorrect, but that's all part of the fun. Trust that I will not have any prior knowledge about the sample's contents before conducting my review, and that the review will not be edited after the reveal. Pencils are down upon unveiling the mystery whiskey, so any grammatical or spelling errors will have to stay. I look forward to this little game, but I hope it doesn't become the end of me! Sample #1 From: Mansour (San Diego, CA) Date: 09/15/2022 Appearance: medium color Nose: Oooooh, this is nice! Immediately, the nose relays a distinct vegetal aroma, a scent I commonly refer to as bleeding plant stems or roses-- not grass or fruit, but the crisp and raw scent of a broken plant stalk or blooming rose. It smells like the color green. Sometimes this sort of smell will waft off of a fern or houseplant, especially when warmed by sunlight. The sourness reminds me also of pre-packaged apple slices kept "fresh" by a lemon solution, the sharp smells of both fruits mingling. While the dominance of this notes distracts me from anything else that might be there, it is a gorgeous note and requires no supporting cast. Caramel comes out from underneath, and the greenness continues with surprising depth, not brittle and thin as crisper notes can often be. I've gotten this sort of nose on several bourbons and ryes, and although it always comes from a smaller craft distillery, the type of whiskey can differ widely. My suspicion is that this is a bourbon from a distillery such as Frey Ranch or Koval that uses grains from outside of the mass market. While there are absolutely no ethanol fumes detracting from the nose, my guess is that this is going to be relatively high proof, probably over 125. This is a mesmerizing nose. Taste: Funky, but an unfamiliar bright funk, not musty or dark. My taste buds want to commit to the vegetal profile present in the nose, but are pulled askew by whispers of other notes, not lingering long enough for a proper identification, but unmistakably present. Chocolate? Not sure. Rose water and cardamom? Maybe. This whiskey is like an aromatic bowl of spiced Jasmine rice at an Middle Eastern restaurant, and that is the weirdest comparison I've made to date, but you may find it surprisingly accurate. The flavor is rich, a little tug of war between the vegetal character and more traditional bourbon notes such as caramel and barrel char. Finish: The finish is long, leaving me smacking long enough to burn a few calories. It is a full-palate experience, coating all surfaces with a thin, acidic sheen that takes its time retreating into an oaky dust. In my mind, I often compare the residual oak layer left on one's tongue to the Elmer's glue left on one's fingers after a craft project. Not necessarily desirable, but secretly kind of fun. Interestingly, the tail end of the finish brings out what I suspect is the rye character, previously dormant. It shows up at an almost imperceptible hint of dill, maybe bar olives. As the glass becomes emptier, more caramel-adjacent flavors and scents begin to come out, namely crystalized honey and butterscotch. Closing Impression: This is a great whiskey, checking all the boxes and then some. It isn't something that fits any traditional mold snugly enough to please a crowd, lacking the oaky and syrupy character of popular bourbon, but those who appreciate the occasional off-road experience will appreciate it. This is a bourbon that demands attention. I could easily see someone getting caught up in the initial vegetal burst, never bothering to look deeper and thereby denying themselves a whole world of flavor. The whiskey has such a clean profile that I wouldn't be surprised if it was organic. Of course, that is a ridiculous thing to say and I have no real idea of how an organic whiskey would taste, but it's a gut feeling. Nose: 94 Taste: 91 Finish: 87 Overall: 91/100 REVEAL: Frey Ranch Single Barrel Barrel Strength "Khoury's Fine Wine and Spirits" Proof: 125.12 Age: NAS Finish: None Source: Frey Ranch Distillery (Nevada) Price: $89.99 to $99.99 POST REVEAL THOUGHTS: I can't imagine a better way to hit off the segment than with a near-perfect guess. While the uniqueness of the Frey Ranch profile makes it easier to identify in a blind than most, I still feel pride at having guessed it correctly. Not every detail was correct, but I guess incorrectly more often than not.

The Pot Still Column: Episode 12 Saint Cloud 13 Year Single Barrel Barrel Proof Bourbon (9-Muses) Barrel #9-Muses (Bottle 42) Proof: 121 Age: 13 Years Finish: None Source: undisclosed Kentucky Distillery (likely Buffalo Trace or Bardstown) Price: $219.99 Why does the difference between a 12 and 13 year bourbon feel so much more significant than one year?? Let's find out how much of a difference it actually makes. Saint Cloud 13 Year Single Barrel Barrel Proof Bourbon (*takes a breath*) is a sourced blend of Kentucky whiskeys bottled by Saint Cloud Kentucky Bourbon in an undisclosed place from an undisclosed distillery. The company was founded by Ray Walker, a French wine maker who took his many years of spirit-making experience and founded a company that doesn't make it's own spirit. The company, a one-man show run exclusively by Walker himself, emphasizes the influence that Walker's experience in Burgundy has had on the products. While one might have trouble making sense of this claim considering that the products are all unadulterated single barrels made by somebody else, Walker explains the paradox in an interview with The Pot Still Column. The California-native suggests that his experience as a wine-maker refined his palate beyond what most might expect from whiskey producers with no such background in the industry. Thus, Walker's background in wine influences the selection process, ensuring a well thought out and intelligently selected product. Saint Cloud primarily produces single barrels that it selects from sourced stock and bottles at barrel proof. Each barrel is given a unique name, a creative detail that adds some personality to the selection process. Today's barrel, an older release, has been dubbed "9-Muses," a name that was chosen during a run of Greek mythology themed barrel releases. Walker describes the selection process somewhat poetically, explaining that the barrel names have been frequently inspired by Greek mythology, with traits inherent to the barrels reminding Walker of details from specific stories. Saint Cloud can be somewhat elusive, demanding high prices at MSRP and thus falling victim to the price-gouging tactics of liquor stores and hoarding tendencies of bourbon collectors. Other times, bottles are stuck in the back of shops as an overly premium product, never to see the light of day. Walker expresses his dismay with such practices, noting that his whiskey is meant to be consumed, not bunkered. Despite its relative lack of availability, Saint Cloud's releases sell out at a faster rate than the company can meet demand, often failing to make it out of the state in which they are released. Of the young brand's many releases, I've only been able to try single barrels of 7 and 13 year distillate, both of which have been stellar. The company has also recently partnered with artists from around the world to design the labels for Saint Cloud's "X Series" bourbon, once again emphasizing the brand's penchant for creativity. The production of X-Series, a line of experimental whiskeys finished in unique ways, is Walker's foray into the world of production rather than pure sourcing. While many of the experimental whiskey's components are kept off the label, a negative trigger for those who prioritize transparency, Saint Cloud has engaged in some innovative techniques to make the most of its whiskeys. Rumor has it that some barrels are given regular spa-days to influence their aging... In fact, Walker alludes to the fact that some pre-X Series single barrels have undergone some mad science as well, despite it not being advertised on the label. While some may regard this as a further lack of transparency, Walker views it as more of a hidden gift, taking pleasure in knowing that his brand's consumers are getting more than they bargained for. Next time you find an older release of Saint Cloud bourbon, consider the possibility that you may be holding a pre-release barrel of whackily-finished X-Series at a fraction of the cost. Additionally, Walker has noted that several of the age-statement descriptions on single barrels are pleasantly inaccurate due to the impact of COVID-19 on label-making, often displaying numbers up to a full year lower than the actual age. Your 7 year bourbon might be an 8 year bourbon, and your 13 year bourbon could be up to 14 years old! While I am disenchanted by the ease with which one could misinterpret the brand's wine-maker-turned-distiller origin story, the brand has made the necessary steps to distinguish itself as a unique business model, and I must concede my respect for the barrel selection team's palate. Finally, Walker has announced that, although it has not yet been released as public knowledge, the next phase for Saint Cloud is contract distilling with privately sourced grains including French wheat and Scottish barley, and unique finishes such as Japanese Mizunara Oak. While the next few releases will continue to be sourced from an unnamed Kentucky distillery, in the next few years the market will begin to see the appearance of Saint Cloud's younger contracted distillate. Visually, the whiskey is a medium caramel color, and the bottle that contains it is beautifully designed. The sloped shoulders and long neck make for a very aesthetically pleasing presentation, garnished nicely by the custom-designed brass cork topper. The cork topper features a small statue of a running man with wings, likely the Greek god Hermes, and the figure is holding a fleur-de-lis, a probable reference to the founder's time in France. The barrel information is hand-written on the side label, and an ostentatiously placed medallion replaces a front-facing label. If I gave a score for presentation, this would rank very highly, the only downside being the bottle's lack of compatibility with some shelves and bars due to its excessive height. Then again, I don't think Saint Cloud's intention was to have this ultra-premium and ultra-expensive bottle sit on a commercial bar. The nose on this bourbon is spectacular, coming out of the glass in bold waves with very bright and sweet "classic bourbon" notes. This type of bourbon is difficult to describe, both approachable and well-balanced, but sharp and cutting in its brightness. The term most often used to describe this profile is "sour", but I don't think that the whiskey is sour in the literal sense. The descriptor may come to mind because the bourbon interacts with the palate in a similar fashion to sour foods such as syrupy frozen lemonade concentrate and underripe fruit. Tart might be a better word for the sensation, although it is difficult to describe something exclusive to bourbon with culinary comparisons. While not unrefined, the nose is more grain-forward than oaky, a pleasant surprise when tasting a high age-statement bourbon. The caramel that exists in the nose is not pure caramel, more of a Werther's Original butterscotch or Cadbury Egg. Backing away from the glass a bit, I can pick up traces of bubblegum as well. While Saint Cloud has been very secretive about the source of their distillate, I am almost completely certain that this is an excellent barrel of Buffalo Trace. However, the bottle states that the whiskey was made in a copper pot still, and I believe that Buffalo Trace Distillery uses column stills, so the question remains unanswered. [**UPDATE: I have confirmed that it is not Buffalo Trace, and that Saint Cloud has no business relationships with Buffalo Trace Distillery.] The taste is just as good as the nose, a rare occurrence for me, emphasizing the bright and shiny butterscotch note along with vanilla and a very subtle wisp of root-beer or cola. The flavor is extremely dense and the viscosity is perfect, leaving a numbing sensation on the front of the tongue and finishing with a slow, pleasant burn that fades into 13 years worth of oak. Closing Impression: To say that a perfect bourbon exists is silly, as bourbons of equal quality can sit on completely opposite ends of the available flavor spectrum. Nonetheless, I am going to get a little silly and proclaim that this is just about as close to a perfect traditional bourbon as it gets. The overall experience is full-bodied and full-flavored, expressing all the refinements of age with none of the overbearing oakiness that often spoils it. The flavor profile is butterscotch-forward and bright, pairing perfectly with the moderately viscous texture and punchy presentation. Despite the beautifully high proof, no ethanol worsens the experience. The price on this bottle is high... too high. Still, the price reflects the quality, and there can be no doubt that this is a quality bourbon. While pricing is more complicated than slapping a tag on a bottle, a fair ask for this bourbon would be somewhere between $100 and $150. If you can find this at a bar or with a friend, grab a sample, as it is worth the price of admission for a single pour. Nose: 91/100 Taste: 93/100 Finish: 92/100 Overall: 92/100 **Taste is subjective! Your experience with any given bottle may not align perfectly with mine. I am committed to providing you with the most accurate tasting notes I can muster, but how we perceive the presence of those notes may very well be different. Drink with good spirits and an open mind! [Update: this article was last edited on 09.11.2022 to reflect a more accurate depiction of Saint Cloud Bourbon following an informative interview with founder, Ray Walker]

The Pot Still Column: Episode 11 Sagamore Spirit Cask Strength Rye Proof: 112.2 Age: 4+ Years Finish: None Source: MGP (Lawrenceburg, Indiana) sourced by Sagamore Spirit Distillery (Baltimore, Maryland) Price: $28.99 (375ml) The first time I ever tried Sagamore Spirit Rye was at a holiday party for work. My first impression came in the form of several hefty Solo Cup pours of Sagamore Spirit's Double Oak Rye, and I remember nothing of it. So, cheers to second first impressions. Sagamore Spirit, founded in 2013, is an MGP-sourced producer of rye whiskey located in Baltimore, Maryland. Like many distilleries in recent years, Sagamore Spirit embraced sourcing from bigger brands such as MGP as its ticket to success early on, allowing it to establish its presence in the whiskey market as it prepared to begin its own distillation. The company's claim to fame has been the incorporation of its Maryland spring water into the sourced whiskey blends, a factor that supposedly makes the otherwise generic whiskey more its own (*eye roll*). As of 2017, Sagamore Spirit has begun in-house distillation, marking the start of a long-term plan to shift away from sourced products and breath true life into the Maryland whiskey scene. Press releases have suggested that the distillery plans on fully transitioning to homemade distillate in the next few years as its first batches come of age. Sagamore Spirit's core collection of ryes includes their signature rye, bottled in bond, double oak, and cask strength, most of which can be found with relative ease in the states to which the company distributes. While the distillery does have a single barrel program that occasionally produces private picks, the brand is better known for its core offerings, all of which are blended in undisclosed proportions from MGP rye mashbills. The primary MGP rye mashbills are 95/5 rye to barley, 51/49 rye to barley, and 51/45/4 rye to corn to barley. I've let the whiskey sit in a glencairn for about 15 minutes while writing the intro, and the scent rising from the glass has been teasing me the whole time. My experience with MGP rye is less thorough than it is with MGP bourbon, but the nose on this Sagamore Spirit Cask Strength is giving me a very positive reintroduction to this side of the distillery. The rye is extremely caramel forward, making it an easy pickup for bourbon lovers. Ethanol is present, but it isn't unpleasant or overpowering, and I wouldn't call it an important part of the overall profile. There are some very light grassy green notes that mark it as a rye, and a robust saltiness that upgrades the caramel to salted caramel. Something fruity lingers in the nose as well, reminding me of the acidic quality of the juice from a freshly cut plum. When I say plum, I do not at all mean the faux-plum or dried plum note associated with some scotches, but the fresh, crisp juice of a slightly under ripe fruit. I get no dill, but there is an abstract, spicy herbal note. The first sip reminds me that this is a cask strength rye. Full-bodied and full-flavored, it settles pointedly on the very center of the tongue, the majority of the flavors occupying a square centimeter of space with great intensity. While whiskey spreads itself across the entire palate at first, it seems to recede into the center of the tongue like water down a drain, leaving a concentrated tingly sensation. The ethanol makes itself more fully known in the flavor, forcing a cleansing breath out of the drinker at every swallow. A little bit of barrel char shows up on the back end of each sip, and the char persists into the oaky finish. The finish itself is on the shorter side, although it disappears cleanly, not vanishing in disorganized layers as it often the case. Closing Impression: I am struggling to describe the experience of this rye with the detail it deserves. Many of the flavors present seem to exist exclusively in whiskey, making it difficult to provide a non-whiskey comparison. The best I can do is ask one to imagine other MGP ryes that one may have tried, most of which are caramel-forward and bourbonesque. Sagamore Spirit Cask Strength is quite good, not providing any reason for disappointment but not breaking any boundaries either. The presentation on the palate is the most unique aspect of the rye, and I can still feel the concentrated burn of the whiskey on the small space in the center of my tongue. The astringent finish that proceeds the initial presentation detracts from the overall experience. The overall profile is caramel-forward and oaky, making it a fantastic rye for anybody who prefers bourbon. The ethanol presence is a little too heavy for my taste, a fault for which the youth of the whiskey is probably responsible. The entire experience is rough around the edges, making me wish that the blenders had waited a few more years to bottle this. Nose: 85/100 Taste: 81/100 Finish: 66/100 Overall: 77/100

The Pot Still Column: Episode 10 Sourced Whiskey: Passable or Plagiarism? Proof: N/A Age: N/A Source: MGP, Buffalo Trace Distillery, Barton 1792, George Dickel, etc. Price: N/A Before I begin reviewing the first of this week's bottles, allow me a moment to vent. The next whiskey on the docket is a very nice rye sourced from MGP, and while I stand by my promise to review all whiskeys with as little bias as possible, I cannot help but address my mixed feelings about sourced whiskey. I am always hesitant and perhaps a little reluctant to taste and review sourced whiskeys released under independent labels. I understand the need for new distilleries to source their first few releases as they get their feet under them, but the decision to perpetually source someone else's whiskey and appropriate it as one's own creation strikes me as dishonest and, for lack of better words, lame. The vast majority of sourced whiskey in the current market comes from a handful of goliath distillers: MGP, Buffalo Trace, Barton 1792, and George Dickel being the primary suspects. Each of these distilleries has brands of its own and is responsible for some of the most renowned bourbons and ryes in existence. Every one of these companies has been established for hundreds of years, passing the tests of time and becoming something great in the process. At some point in the long history of whiskey in the United States, smaller distilleries began sourcing whiskey from the aforementioned companies, often aging it or finishing it in their own warehouses and releasing it under private labels. This symbiotic relationship allowed new distilleries to sell quality products as they laid the groundwork for their physical distilleries and prepared to produce their own distillate. Whiskey of any kind takes time and resources to make, with statutes demanding prolonged aging in oak barrels being the greatest contributors to these limitations. Such laws made it practically impossibly for a distillery to sell a viable whiskey in the first few years of its existence, so sourcing was an obvious remedy for those unwilling to produce clear spirits in the interim. The trouble with modern day sourcing is that the system once meant to inspire originality as a temporary form of relief for aspiring distilleries has become a permanent business model for those who choose to exploit it indefinitely. MGP of Indiana is without a doubt a producer of incredible whiskeys, and I continue to find excitement in MGP products despite having tried more than I care to count. While MGP has a variety of in-house brands such as George Remus, Rebel (previously Rebel Yell), Rossville Union, and Ezra Brooks, its distillate can be most frequently found through the non-distilling producers (NDPs) that source it. A few of these sourced brands include Smooth Ambler, Smoke Wagon, Nulu, and Nashville Barrel Company, all of which comprise an almost negligible fraction of the hundreds of brands sourcing MGP. My discomfort has nothing to do with MGP itself (or any brand that sources to other distilleries), but has rather to do with the flagrant use of the mega-distillery's product by NDPs in such a way that foregoes transparency about the whiskey's origin. It is a rarity to find a bourbon or rye that markets itself as MGP distillate; the closest one might come to this is seeing a label that reads, "distilled in Indiana," typed in the smallest font legally possible. Thankfully, MGP is one of a very small number of Indiana distilleries with the ability to sell distillate to others, making the state of distillation a telling clue about the whiskey's origin. However, such is not always the case with whiskey sourced from Kentucky, as several distilleries out-source from within that state. There is a great deal of pride that goes into distilling great whiskey--- it is a craft after all, bordering on art. You can scoff or fight me on this if you'd like, but you must admit that some distillers produce masterpieces while others... not so much. This pride is what motivates the stories (truth and lies alike) that many distilleries spin about their age-old recipes passed down through the generations and first crafted with nothing but a rusty bucket in a ramshackle hut. This pride exists in large part because distilling is hard! It is not easy to distill a quality spirit, and the process requires great skill. The stories exist to highlight the importance of the product and the difficulty with which it was produced--- it is all very romantic. However, this romantic element is threatened when consumers encounter tales of a distillery's incredible, billion-year-old whiskey recipe, only to discover that it was made entirely by someone else. The adoption of another entity's work as one's own without proper citation, especially in the realms of art and craft, is a soft form of plagiarism. And plagiarism is reprehensible. Now, of course, there are exceptions. There are plenty of brands on the market that source whiskey but add enough of their own creative flair to earn the right to call it their own. Better yet, some of these brands are very transparent about the source of their distillate, taking credit not for the distillation of the product, but for the final outcome. Blending and finishing are the two primary methods by which NDPs procure the right to call a sourced whiskey their own. An excellent example of blending can be found in Smoke Wagon, a Nevada-based company that sources bourbon and rye from MGP. Aaron Chepenik, the cowboy hat-wearing mastermind behind the Smoke Wagon brand has established himself firmly as an artist in his own right, painstakingly measuring and testing from dozens of different barrels to produce unique batches of MGP blends. Moreover, Smoke Wagon is very transparent about the source of its distillate, never having claimed to produce it in-house. So firmly has Smoke Wagon established itself as an MGP-sourced brand that it has bought out nearly every barrel of a specific bourbon mashbill, making that particular high-rye expression almost exclusively its own. Another honest brand that sources from MGP is Savage & Cooke, a winery-turned-distillery from Sonoma, California that imparts unique combinations of homemade wine finishes on sourced bourbon. Other brands are significantly less ethical about their sourcing, making every effort to portray their product as something it is not. While I won't call out any specific distilleries, they are far from few in number, and several have a dominating presence in the market backed by an absurd amount of hype. While there is nothing inherently wrong with sourcing whiskey, the crux of my dismay is that the world simply does not need another dishonest brand sourcing an out-of-house or even out-of-state product. Bottles of "Maryland whiskey" or "Alabama whiskey" should not be made in Indiana or Tennessee. Liquor store shelves do not need another $100 single barrel pick of 4-year MGP with a flashy label and a tater sticker. We don't need dozens of brands, each with its own bullshit origin story and misleading website that ultimately sells the same exact whiskey as the next bottle over. We don't need independent bottlers selling 4 to 6 year old bourbon for twice what it is worth, or companies capitalizing off of the ignorance of the public. I know better than to think that the great behemoth of sourced whiskey will slow any time soon--- there is far too much momentum, and the low-hanging fruit is ripe for picking. Still, I can inform my readers about the current state of affairs, and perhaps convince consumers to think more about the product they are buying. Think twice the next time you hear about an amazing new brand on the market offering 4 to 6 year old bourbon for $80 to $100 a bottle. Look closely, and if the label doesn't say where the product was distilled, not just produced or bottled, think thrice. MGP, Buffalo Trace, George Dickel, and the other common sourcing distilleries produce some of the most incredible whiskey on the planet. Of this there is no doubt. Still, their omnipresence in the market and the support they get for having such a monopoly disincentivizes distillers to produce creative products of their own. Every sourced whiskey born is a creative idea killed, and a new flavor left unseen. Without the innovation and boldness discouraged by the large-scale normalization of sourcing whiskey from the same few distilleries, whiskey will stagnate as a spirit and industry. Every small distillery that becomes too comfortable sourcing is one less producer of "wow" moments, and one more roadblock in the path of discovery. Despite its ancient history, whiskey is a spirit with much maturation left to do. While established techniques and ingredient will surely remain relevant for centuries to come, the idea that whiskey is a completely developed and fully-tapped craft is foolish. Certain grains such as rye and styles such as the American single malt are just now being explored to what is almost certainly just a fraction of their full potentials. The fast-growing presence of sourced whiskey as a staple in the market is a threat to such exploration, primarily because of its tendency to establish the profiles of the sourced products as the golden standards. If the desire to uncover new grains, flavors, blends, and techniques is expunged in the pursuit of a generic standard, then whiskey has truly reached its peak, and we must embrace the possibility that we have nothing better to look forward to when we inevitably tire of what we have.

The Pot Still Column: Episode 9 Yellow Rose Outlaw Bourbon Barrel Proof “Luckie Champagne” Proof: 124.2 Age: 2+ Years Finish: None Source: Yellow Rose Distilling (Houston, Texas) Price: $50.00 Yellow Rose Distilling's website claims that it only takes one sip of Outlaw Bourbon to realize that one has never had anything like it. I happen to agree. Yellow Rose Distillery, a craft whiskey producer in Houston Texas, has been touting the title of "first legal distillery in Houston" since its inception in 2010. Joining the small collection of early players in the Texas whiskey renaissance such as Garrison Brothers (Hye, est. 2006) and Balcones (Waco, est. 2008), Yellow Rose has put Houston on the map as a whiskey-producing city. Their first release hit store shelves in 2012, and their current head distiller, Houston Ferris (who could not be more aptly named) joined the team in 2014. Outlaw Bourbon is one of Yellow Rose's five core expressions, the others being their Premium American, Rye, Harris County Bourbon, and Single Malt whiskeys. While the core line may include two bourbons, Outlaw Bourbon distinguishes itself by containing a 100% corn mashbill. In a sense, Outlaw Bourbon is really a corn whiskey masquerading as a bourbon, making good use of the allowances provided by bourbon's legal definition as a spirit with a mashbill of 51% corn or greater (in addition to several other requirements). That being said, the outcome is the most complex and impressive corn whiskey I have ever tried. I don't consider corn an ideal grain for whiskey production, especially in comparison with more expressive grains such as rye and barley, but Yellow Rose does its best to prove me wrong with this offering. Outlaw Bourbon is generally bottled at 46% ABV, but the bottle I have in front of me boasts a much higher proof, coming in hot at 62.1% ABV. This bottle is a pick by Luckie Champagne out of San Diego, California, and it is a pick like no other. Only one cask strength single barrel of Outlaw Bourbon has ever been bottled--- outside of this barrel, such a whiskey simply does not exist. The color is very dark in the bottle, a product of aging in the Texas heat. The container itself is very nicely put together, emblazoned with the Yellow Rose logo in gold and white, and outfitted with a sticker bearing Luckie Champagne's signature crusty dog. The synthetic cork is topped with a thick coin stamped with the Yellow Rose logo, making it pleasantly heavy. Most eye-catching is the leather band wrapped around the neck of the bottle. The attractive little detail clearly takes a page out of Four Roses' bottle design book, making me wonder if all bourbons with rose-themed names have leather accessories. Have you ever had a Rum Baba? It is an obscure Italian dessert comprised of a fluffy pastry soaked in a sweetened rum mixture. The result is a delightfully sweet, caramelly concoction that fills the roles of food and drink alike. It also happens to be exactly what this smells like. Dense, dripping notes of alcoholic caramel dominate the nose, followed by an extraordinarily refined and powerful oak scent. The oak is spicy, an exotic wood spice, not a pepper or chili spice, and one could be convinced that this has some sort of rye in it (it does not). Anyone familiar with Texas whiskey could almost certainly guess the product's state of origin, as the intense oakiness present here runs through the veins of nearly every true Texas whiskey. While this is undoubtedly unique, the similarity to Garrison Brothers is difficult to ignore. The taste is fiery, a balancing act of forceful oak, creamy caramel, and delicate spice. This is a few-note wonder, not terribly complicated, but complicatedly intriguing. Barely a few sips in, my tongue is numb, responding to the flavor bomb (yes, I said it) as though it were hazmat. I would advise adding water. The finish lingers in my mouth for over half of a minute, hovering like a dense cloud as each sip gives up the ghost. The blending potential for this whisky is infinite; it contains a rare oaky richness that one can usually expect to find only in the oldest of bourbons. A splash of this in a blend of more delicate whiskeys would increase the perceived "age" by a decade. Closing Impression: This pick of Yellow Rose's Outlaw Bourbon is a serious contender in the competition for flavor per drop. The powerful but balanced oak presence paired with the unique wood spice makes for an intriguing pour to say the least, augmented greatly by the knowledge that the only ingredient is corn. Let me be clear that this is not a standard bourbon by any means, and it deviates tremendously from the standards set by Buffalo Trace, MGP, and other bourbon powerhouses. This is a unique creation to be appreciated for its own merits, not in comparison with other bourbons. As far as Texas whiskey goes, this keeps pace with many of the other important players, having a similar profile to Garrison Brothers, but failing to reach the levels of complexity found in the distillates of Balcones and Still Austin. This is my first experience with Yellow Rose, and I dare say that I am not disappointed in the least. I do, however, think that this whiskey may be of more value as a component in blends than as a standalone pour. I'll be keeping a close eye out for Yellow Rose's single malt, as it should be spectacular if Outlaw Bourbon is any indication. Nose: 86/100 Taste: 83/100 Finish: 76/100 Overall: 82/100

The Pot Still Column: Episode 8 Naked Malt Blended Malt Scotch Proof: 86 Age: NAS (3+ Years) Finish: Sherry Casks Source: The Famous Grouse (sourced blend of The Macallan, Glenrothes, Glenturret, and Highland Park) Price: $29.99 The Famous Grouse is a brand owned by the Edrington Group, an international whiskey conglomerate behind enormous brands such as The Macallan, Highland Park, Noble Oak, and Wyoming Whiskey. Naked Malt is the rebranded version of Naked Grouse, a Famous Grouse sub-brand that was retired in in 2021. I'll skip over Edrington's explanation for the change, as I find it to be an uninspiring attempt to romanticize what was just a standard brand reimaging. Naked Malt is reportedly a blend of several well-known single malt scotches, some of which include The Macallan, Highland Park, Glenturret, and Glenrothes. The whisky is bottled at 86 proof, somewhat standard for scotch, and bears no age statement beyond the 3-year legal requirement. The scotch is finished in "naked" sherry butts, meaning first-fill sherry casks that have not seen other whisky. The color is surprisingly dark, especially for a scotch, which could be the product of the sherry finishing or artificial coloring. Other Edrington brands such as The Macallan have been known to use artificial dyes such as E-150 to darken their products, so it would not be a stretch to assume that they've done the same with this budget offering. There is much contention about the use of artificial coloring in scotch, but I happen to think it adds to the experience. Whether it comes from a place of reason or not, a dark, rich-looking scotch tends to put me in a better mindset and fill me with greater expectations than a light one. For the quality provided at the ridiculous price of $29.99, they could color it purple and I wouldn't care. On the nose, this is a buttery sherry bomb with notes of overripe strawberry. I can tell from the first whiff that I adore the scent of this whisky. This is the kind of sherry presence that I wish many higher-end, higher proof scotches contained in their aromas. There is nothing particularly complex about the nose--- it is a simple but very rich sherry finished malt. The taste leaves something to be desired, putting it plainly. It simply cannot live up to the robustness of the smell, and the scotch falls a little flat, lacking any sort of clarity or direction. Is it enjoyable? Yes, this is an absolutely crushable whisky that would function perfectly as a worry-free pour with friends while directing one's attention elsewhere. The proof is low, but not so low that it washes away all sense of character. Closing Impression: As far as budget scotches go, this is an excellent choice for scotch drinkers of any caliber. At less than $30 for 750ml, there is little that I can say to truly criticize the whisky. This could certainly be a competitor for best-in-class, showing quality that outshines many of its contemporaries by significant margin. Rather than detracting from the whisky, the low proof helps establish Naked Malt's status as a "crushable" whisky, excellent for mindless but enjoyable sipping during family gatherings, sports events, or barbeques. For the price, this is a bottle to own. Nose: 92/100 Taste: 68/100 Finish: 70/100 Overall: 77/100

The Pot Still Column: Episode 7 Westward Cask Strength American Single Malt Whiskey “K&L Wine Merchants” Proof: 126.8 Age: NAS (~ 5 Years) Finish: None Source: Westward Distillery (Portland, Oregon) Price: $100.00 Westward distillery of Portland, Oregon has become an increasingly familiar brand in the whiskey scene, appearing more frequently on shelves across the country, and having become one of the favorite targets of independent bottlers looking for exciting single barrels. An exclusive distiller of American single malt whiskey, Westward has expanded its product line to include various exotic finishes, and has received significant attention on account of its prolific single barrel program. One such single barrel has made its way onto my shelves, providing us with the content for this review. The distillery opened in 2004 amidst the calm before craft distilling took the United States by storm, and was revamped in 2011 after undergoing a change in leadership. The distillery takes a very naturalistic approach to whiskey making, allowing the whiskey to dictate its process, rather than having a set process dictate the whiskey. With nearly two decades of distilling experience under its belt, Westward has mastered the art of the American single malt, paving the way and setting the standard for the young category as it has been since the start. Every Westward whiskey is twice distilled in low-reflux pot stills from a slow-brewed American Ale before it is rested in low-char American oak barrels. The low-reflux pot stills produce a distillate with more congeners— “imperfections” in the distillate, the presence of which correlates positively with density of flavor. The primary expressions of single malts available from Westward include an unfinished malt, a stout cask finish, and a pinot noir cask finish, although a rum cask finish is on its way. The single barrel program has been known to expand beyond these finishing options as well. Each finish is available at 90 proof, cask strength, or as independently selected single barrels. It should be noted that the cask strength for Westward is regularly over 120 proof and frequently approaches hazmat (140+). Today's selection is a cask strength single barrel of Westward's unfinished single malt that I picked up at K&L Wine Merchants in San Francisco. The whiskey is a dark red in color, resembling a hibiscus iced tea, and is very obviously viscous at first glance. The bottle design is unique and beautiful, although it sacrifices functionality and bar-friendliness for aesthetic appeal. The glass is noticeably thick, and the bottle's shoulders are diamond shaped, providing for a very elegant presentation. The bottle is custom designed for Westward, featuring a raised logo and opulent brass cork topper. Funnily enough, the brass single barrel label has been applied upside down, only drawing more attention to the resources and creativity behind the bottle design. Approaching the glass, the nose makes no secret of its presence, wafting strongly in a three-inch radius from the rim of the glass. The primary note is Westward's signature malt presentation, a beery tanginess that balances sweet with savory. Mingling with the malt is citrus rind, acidic and oily, bringing to mind the concentrated zest of a cumquat more than a traditional sweet orange. The interaction of the malt and citrus produces a fresh vegetal or floral scent, somewhere between roses and evergreen needles. The mouthfeel is rich and confirms the aforementioned viscosity, coating the entire palate with an oily drip. The proof is perfect, objectively hot but showing no sign of ethanol, creating an experience of pure flavor. That's one of the many beauties of malt whiskey--- the final product tends to come out more rounded and uniform than that of non-malts. The ethanol is seamlessly incorporated into the flavor profile, and doesn't fill the cavity of the glass with foul fumes that conceal the flavors beneath. The flavors are not overly complex, although this does not detract from the taste in the slightest, allowing the taster to more fully appreciate what is directly in front of them. The finish is long and oily, carrying with it the full scope of the whiskey's flavors, not just an oaky specter of the pour as is the case for many other whiskeys. Closing Impressions: I have thoroughly enjoyed this American single malt from Westward. Every sip is an experience on its own, packed with flavor and not just a means to the bottom of the glass. The unadulterated whiskey was so good that I didn't bother adding water, but it most certainly could take a splash without losing any of its density. I was pleasantly surprised by the whiskey's lack of ethanol at such a high proof, and I enjoyed the beery funk despite it being a rather unusual flavor. This would be an excellent pour for anyone who is looking to transition from scotch to American single malts, bearing the bold, oaky characteristics of bourbon and the delicate floral notes of Scottish malts. I would be less confident recommending this to a newbie to the single malt scene or a delicate palate, as I can easily see a conservative or ill-prepared consumer being put off by Westward's shock factor. This is a challenge for the untrained palate, and a welcome adventure for the flavor junkie. Nose: 88/100 Taste: 86/100 Finish: 95/100 Overall 90/100

The Pot Still Column: Episode 6 Whistlepig Boss Hog “V” Fifth Edition - The Spirit of Mauve Barrel #66 Proof: 117.6 Age: 13 Years Finish: Calvados Barrels Source: Sourced from Canada by Whistlepig Distillery (Shoreham, Vermont) Price: $500.00 For most, spending $500 on a bottle of whiskey is ridiculous and stupid. Don’t do it. My review of this bottle is not a condonation of spending every penny of your rent money on a painfully finite container of spicy yeast water. That being said, this bottle of Boss Hog: The Spirit of Mauve is nothing less than spectacular. Boss Hog is Whistlepig Distillery’s most premium line of distilled spirits, and an annual release currently on its eighth chapter (2021). Whistlepig markets the premium line as their “biggest, most profound whiskey for the Boss Hog in all of us.” I think they should’ve named it “Position of Power Pig” instead for the alliteration, but I am no marketing consultant. The Spirit of Mauve, the fifth installment of the Boss Hog line, is all but extinct at the time of this review, making it an even more special bottle to review. The much-anticipated expression was announced in 2017 for release the following year, and bottles did not last long on store shelves, as Whistlepig has somewhat of a cult following in certain circles. The bottle retails for $500 USD, but liquor store and secondary market prices have soared well over $1,000, making it either impossible or extremely inconvenient to acquire. The spirit itself is a 13-year Canadian rye finished in Calvados barrels, none of which is Whistlepig’s own distillate. For context, Whistlepig has only recently begun to distill its own product, blending homemade distillate with its traditionally sourced whiskey in the Farmstock bourbon and rye releases. The Spirit of Mauve is bottled at 117.6 proof, although the label is curiously misleading in its claim that the whiskey is both 58.8% ABV and 117.5 proof. The decision to finish the rye in Calvados, an apple or pear brandy from Normandy, France, is supposedly an ode to the company’s mascot, a pig named Mauve with a love for apples. While I admittedly have not done the appropriate research to confirm this speculation, the elaborately sculpted cork-topper on the bottle suggests that Mauve, the loveable porky mascot, may no longer be with us. Jumping into the nose after a brief rest in the glass, I am not immediately able to pin down the scents with which I am met. While scents, as they do in this case, can jump aggressively out of the glass, inspiration for descriptive tasting notes is often shyer in its approach. I can definitely smell the apple, although it isn’t the crisp green apple that is frequently found in scotch. Instead, I would describe it as more of a dark, oxidized apple, such as you might find in homemade applesauce or on the outer layer of an apple slice that has been left out on the cutting board. Cinnamon is also present, although not quite baked, and not quite candy. It is more of a cinnamon stick, clean and unadulterated. Rye grain comes through very clearly from underneath the finish, carrying with it the slightest note of briny dill, playing nicely with the sugary apple. Even without knowing the source, one might suspect that this is Canadian rye by its lighter and refreshing impression on the palate. The flavor manifests itself in waves, beginning as an ethanol burn that quickly fades into an herbal caramel sweetness. However, to say that “sweet” is the dominant note on this whiskey would be selling it short, as the complex interaction between the rye and calvados finish produces a savory component as well. The rye element is delicious but not overly complex. The finish is short and a bit bland, leaving something to be desired, especially considering the potential for a barrel finish to expand a whiskey’s legacy on the palate to a great extent. Closing Impression: This is a lovely take on rye whiskey, and the calvados barrel finish is tasty and unique. The unusual exhibition of the apple flavor as an oxidized fruit is refreshing and light, while the whiskey itself is quite full-bodied. I would be very happy with this bottle at somewhere around $90, but the price for which it is actually available is unreasonable. One can appreciate the value of this bottle beyond its contents, as it contains a spectacularly heavy metal topper emblazoned with the Whistlepig logo and carved into the shape of a porcine angel. The rarity and reputation of the bottle also come into play, but for the consumer who cares little for presentation and hype, the whiskey is a hard sell. Whistlepig’s Boss Hog: Spirit of Mauve is a fantastic rye whiskey with a respectable age statement and a bold finish, but it would be more appealing at a more accessible price. Grab a pour at a bar if you can find it for under $50, as it is most certainly worth the experience-- as a bonus, you can say you’ve had the chance to try it! Nose: 96/100 Taste: 85/100 Finish: 80/100 87/100

The Pot Still Column: Episode 5 Weird Whiskey Wednesday Edition Distillery 291 Barrel Proof Single Barrel Colorado Whiskey “Winter Sucks" Barrel #0002 Proof: 129.6 Age: at least 1 year Finish: Aspen Staves Source: Distillery 291 (Colorado Springs, Colorado) Price: $105.99 If I could exclusively review products from smaller distilleries with a promising future, I absolutely would. Unfortunately, nobody would read my articles if I did, so I must especially relish the infrequent opportunity to review whiskeys like the one we will get into today. Distillery 291 was founded in 2011 in Colorado Springs, joining household name Colorado distilleries such as LAWS, Stranahan's, and Leopold Bros. The company is very clear about its intentions-- they mean to make a rugged, Old-West style whiskey made from grain to glass in-house on their copper pot stills. The distillery offers a great host of expressions, the flagship models of which are their Colorado whiskey, bourbon, and rye, all offered as cask strength single barrels or 100 proof small batch blends. Distillery 291 has expressed a preference for bottling at barrel proof, and its decision to bottle no lower than 100 proof is commendable. The bottle I have in my hands today is a single barrel selection of 291’s Colorado Whiskey selected by Hood Sommelier, a young but potent American whiskey distilled from a rye-malt mash--- always a promising grain selection. The selection was curiously named "Winter Sucks," the truth of which I will never know, as I am sipping this during a beautiful California Summer. The presentation is beautiful, defined by a simplistic and natural looking topper-less cork, a rustic label with earthy colors, and a slender, squarish bottle. The single barrel is extremely young at 1 year of age, although one wouldn’t think so based on the color. It spent its short but intense maturation in a new oak barrel, and was finished with aspen staves, a little-explored finishing choice and a defining characteristic of the 291 product line. To say that the nose is complex would be an understatement. The rye malt mash left strong traits of both grains in the scent profile, providing a strongly herbal and green rye presence that is saved from smelling too young by the roundness of the malted barley. There is a distinct roasty note, like toasted rice or sesame seeds that permeates the nose, shortly followed by hints of light roast coffee and lychee fruit. There is plenty more there, but it eludes description. The taste reveals caramel and more traditional oak barrel notes that bolster the previously mentioned toasty characteristics. At 129.6 proof and with little time to mellow in a barrel, this whiskey demands water, and the experience is significantly more enjoyable after its addition. Waterless, the rye-malt is too sharp, the delicate and complicated flavors done little justice by the ethanol’s dominance. After adding a drop or two of room-temperature water, the ethanol defuses and it becomes much easier to pick out flavor notes. I fully recognize that I am a sucker for bold and unique whiskeys, almost always preferring innovation to the tried and true, so it is no surprise that I can’t help but give Distillery 291 my respect. Everything about their product, from the rustic contents to the gloriously transparent presentation, perfectly represents what the craft whiskey scene in the United States should aspire to be. Too many distilleries lean on the success of vetted mashbills and tired flavors, so the roads less traveled often remain so. Distillery 291 pioneers its own path into the whiskey world, providing its customers with an entirely unique and fearlessly bold expression in its Colorado whiskey. Closing Impressions: While the age of the whiskey and its high-ethanol presence handicaps it somewhat in my evaluation, my impression of this whiskey has been overwhelmingly positive. The nose jumps out of the glass with reckless abandon, and dozens of flavors compete for attention in an exhibition of maximum potency. Flavor per drop is high, and extra points are always awarded for uniqueness. I cannot wait to see what comes of Distillery 291 in the next decade, and it is with resigned certainty that I await the moment when the world catches on and renders it impossible to find. Nose: 95/100 Taste: 91/100 Finish: 89/100 Overall: 91/100

The Pot Still Column: Episode 4 Blue Note Limited Edition 17 Year Barrel Proof Barrel #12963 Proof: 98.1 Age: 17 Years Finish: None Source: sourced by Big River Distilling (Memphis, Tennessee) distilled by George Dickel at Cascade Hollow Distillery Price: $135.00 High age statement American whiskey, especially bourbon, gives me anxiety because it hardly ever lives up to its Scottish and Irish counterparts of the same age. I’ve come to believe that bourbons over 12 years of age are more of a money-grabbing scheme by producers than a passion project of any sort. Of course, there are always exceptions, but it isn’t difficult to imagine the life of a high age statement bourbon going something like this… A barrel of sub-par bourbon from a large distillery fails the quality control check at 6 years, then again at 8, and again at 10. The barrel gets forgotten for years in a back corner of the rickhouse in hopes of maturing, but the distillery must eventually face the reality that their now-17-year-old thrice-disappointing concoction isn’t getting any better. They’ve passively poured bucket-loads of money into the barrel through taxes and overhead costs, so they’re forced to sell the over-oaked monstrosity for a premium. This happens either by marketing the reject barrel as a specialty release of their own, or by offloading it onto a non-distilling producer who will market the whiskey as their grand-daddy’s secret recipe passed down for generations, and double the price to match the story. The resulting bottles sit on the shelf at a big-box liquor store until they’re picked up by a bright-eyed, Tesla-driving whiskey snob who will post in his local Facebook group, singing praises of his extremely limited and expensive single barrel bourbon through jaws so severely cramped shut by oak tannins that the keyboard was his only option. Alternatively, it is possible that the distillery truly intended to produce a well-thought-out bourbon that would come to fruition 17 years from its birth, and some high age statement bourbons are genuinely great (looking at you, GTS). It just so happens that Blue Note 17 Barrel Proof is one of the few high age statement bourbons that has felt like a job well done from start to finish. From the jump, the whiskey smacks the nose with a burst of black pepper, supported by a steady but surprisingly gentle oak undertone. The pepper is very strong, but it carries teasing hints of light caramel that pique the drinker’s interest. The taste is fairly representative of the nose, peppery and oaky, although the caramel presents itself much more richly. The pepper appears to be a more developed manifestation of the usual Dickel minerality, almost certainly a product of the age, although hints of Flintstones-vitamins can still be detected. The flavors are incredibly well-incorporated, and the flavors are unique enough to keep the drinker engaged despite a lack of overall complexity. The finish is pleasantly anesthetizing on the tongue, like going to the dentist but getting mouthfuls of peppery caramel instead of being chided for eating said caramels. Oak is the dominant note all the way through, and the barrel char is mature enough that it comes off as a very soft smoke-- distant like coals from a fire several days extinguished, or the scent of smoked meat. While they didn’t come through in the whiskey itself, clear notes of sweetened chocolate powder and herbal tea reveal themselves in the scent of the empty glass. Closing Impression: This may be a pour to be sought after, especially if you love a more muted bourbon profile and are looking for an age statement that impresses. This is a pleasant rarity in that it doesn’t taste over-oaked, but I would be hard-pressed to buy a bottle at the price offered by most retailers. Nose: 76/100 Taste: 84/100 Finish: 65/100 Overall: 75/100

The Pot Still Column: Episode 3 Edradour 12 Year Cask Strength Sherry-Finished Scotch Whisky Proof: 110.2 Age: 12 Years Finish: Sherry Cask Source: Edradour Distillery (Perthshire, Scotland) Price: $127.36 (£105.00) I'll make it no secret that I prefer malt whiskeys to bourbons and most ryes, so the opportunity to review an excellent single malt is always a welcome one. Even more exciting is the opportunity to review a single malt that was sampled to me by a friend. Those who have been active in whiskey social circles for any period of time will know that sample sharing is one of the simple pleasures of the whiskey community. Sampling is a great way to make connections, start a conversation, and quell the burning urge to buy every single bottle in existence. More often than not, the person giving you the samples will curate them to include whiskies that you've never tried before in hopes of expanding your horizons. The best samples are blind samples, gifted with the intention of inspiring an unbiased review of the mystery whiskey, unhindered by hype, brand preference, and preconceptions. While not a blind sample, my lack of knowledge about Edradour's line of scotch whiskies acts as a bias-buffer while reviewing this. To tell you the truth, I've never even heard of Edradour. I wouldn't consider myself inexperienced when it comes to scotch by any means, but my knowledge is not as thorough here as it is for American whiskey. Edradour isn't a common name on store shelves, at least not in California, so my exposure has been pitifully limited. Pouring this into my glass, I am already taken aback by the color. The Scottish malt is a dark red, nearly black, and when held up to the light it lets none through. Normally a color this dark on scotch strongly indicates the use of an artificial coloring agent, normally in the form of the caramel coloring, E150 (colouring for you Scotts out there). A little research reveals that Edradour derives all of its color naturally, pulling the reddish hue instead from the sherry casks in which the malt is finished. This being said, the color is still abnormally dark, suggesting that they may have "finished" their distillate in a less-than-empty sherry cask. Apparently, Edradour has amassed a bit of a reputation for using the wettest casks in the industry for their "finishing". Whether the casks are wet, dry, or full matters not, however, because the result is absolutely stunning. Disclaimer: the image above is not mine, as I do not own a full bottle to photograph (The Whisky Company) Nosing this, I could be convinced that it is a particularly rich glass of straight sherry. Ripe blackberries explode from the glass, followed closely by raisin-loaded bread pudding and a dark malt that comes through in abundance. I've found that there are generally two types of scotch profiles: crisp, apple-forward malts, and dark, musty, dried-fruit-forward malts. This fits snugly into the second variety, although it doesn't have any of the sometimes off-putting, prune juice notes that can ruin a good dark malt. The dried fruit on this is subtle and exceptionally well-incorporated into the sherry-heavy profile, presenting as raisins baked into a creamy cinnamon pastry rather than straight out of the box. Taking a sip confirms that the raisin note crosses into and develops even more thoroughly in the flavor, along with fruity light-roast coffee and an ever-so-slight note of burnt sherry dregs on the finish. There is a surprisingly small amount of tannins on the finish, but it is slightly drying in a not at all unpleasant way. This whisky reminds me of a limited release I once tried from Liberty Call Distilling in San Diego, CA. The limited run was a paxxed American single malt, and it carried many of the same flavors that I now find in this Edradour 12 Year. For those who don't know, a paxxed whiskey is one aged in a barrel treated with paxarette, a condensed PX sherry syrup that originated in Spain. Paxarette was once a common tool in the the production of scotch whisky, but the Scotch Whisky Act of 1988 rendered it obsolete by prohibiting the use of additives in whisky production. Legal or not, paxarette provides an intense sherry experience, complementing the use of bland sherry casks by introducing a concentrated sherry element. Edradour 12 Cask Strength, while almost certainly not made with paxarette, has achieved the same level of sherry density. The flavors brought to mind more closely resemble a sherry reduction or jam than anything strictly liquid. A splash of water uncovers yet another layer of flavor at no cost to the density--- definitely add water. Closing Impression: Edradour 12 Year Cask Strength is a sherried malt in its purest form and a deeply satisfying pour. If you're looking for an easy sipper, I suggest you look elsewhere. If you love the jammy richness of sherry and are looking for a thought-provoking, dense and syrupy whisky with maximum flavor per drop (FPD), this is the scotch for you. 93/100