Episode 16: Booker's Bourbon "Bardstown Batch" 2021-03

The Pot Still Column: Episode 16

Booker's Bourbon "Bardstown Batch" 2021-03

Proof: 125.5

Age: 6 Years, 5 Months

Source: Jim Beam Distillery (Clermont, Kentucky)

Price: $70.00 (2021)

The color is moderately dark, but I swear the black wax makes it look darker. As far as presentation goes, Bookers is notoriously successful. The brand offers a classic bottle shape adorned with a rustic set of paper labels, the top of which contains details about the specific batch. The top label changes color with every release, and displays the batch number (2021-03), batch name (Bardstown Batch), proof (62.75%), and age to the day (6 years, 5 months, zero days). While it isn't much to ask for a bourbon to transparently display its production details, most bottles don't bother to include that information. For bookers to include this consistently and on the front of the bottle is a huge plus in its favor. The presentation is topped off (literally) by an easy-peel wax seal, and the wax extends far enough down the neck to cover the Bookers medallion and ribbon that garnishes the front of the bottle. I'm not sure I've written such a long paragraph on a bottle's looks before, so I must really like it.

The nose is very bold, making itself known right away. This is an undervalued element of the whiskey drinking experience--- I don't personally enjoy having to rent a backhoe to dig notes out of the nose. Lots of bits and pieces jump out of the glass at once, throwing me off balance as I try to pin any one of them down. There is peanut brittle, a combination of thick caramel and dusty peanuts. There is also strong barrel char, producing a faux-smokiness, and oak barrel smell. I wouldn't say there is no ethanol on the nose, leaving some room for improvement, but the way it presents itself is well-incorporated into the overall profile and leaves little disconnect. Based on the nose alone, any bourbon drinker that doesn't hate peanuts is going to love this.

The taste is just as bold as the nose, and while there is no unpleasant ethanol flavor, the high ABV takes root on the tongue with a slight sting. On the bourbon spectrum, this leans heavily toward the "dark and dusty" side, not displaying too many sour or bright tones. Still, it isn't entirely dark in profile, and some shininess comes through from beneath the dominant nut flavors. Beyond that, this is a very approachable and down-the-middle bourbon loaded with the usual burnt caramels and oak flavors.

The finish is multilayered and long. The initial flavor dissipates pretty soon after swallowing, but the sensory effects linger much longer. A small burst of flavor chases the initial exhalation from the nose, and all that is left is an oaky paste on the palate. While that isn't the most romantic description, I won't pretend to be the biggest fan of oaky finishes. Despite my reservations, I am finding myself enjoying this particular example. I keep waiting for the bitter and astringent finish that so many barrel proof bourbons have, but it never comes. There is a concentration of oak on the center of the tongue that lasts for minutes, but it is a very neutral flavor--- not good or bad.

Closing Impression:

This was pretty good! This bourbon would make an excellent benchmark for other bourbons of this style, as it provides great concentration of flavor, a bold nose, and an unimposing finish. I have found myself enjoying this pour quite a bit, but it will probably be pushed back into the second or third row of my shelves, unlikely to be touched for a while. While this review isn't meant to be a comparison, but an isolated evaluation, it is hard to ignore the massive elephant in the room. Knob Creek Single Barrel, another high proof bourbon from Jim Beam, provides an equally tasty experience for almost half the price. Booker's is great when judged on its own, but its flavors turn a bit ashy in the mouth when price enters the equation. With Beam's suggested retail price nearing $100, the price is quickly outgrowing the bottle's worth as a consumable product, especially considering Knob Creek Single Barrel's $55 price tag.

The third Booker's release of 2021, the "Bardstown Batch," lands squarely in the "good" category, earning a score of 81/100. The nose was its best feature, dense and expressive, the flavor followed closely, and the finish was only minimally lackluster. The overall experience was predominantly positive, although it doesn't encourage a second pour.

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Nose: 85/100

Flavor: 82/100

Finish: 76/100

Overall: 81/100