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- Episode 37: Balcones Rumble Cask Reserve Single Barrel (Hazmat)
The Pot Still Column: Episode 37 Balcones Rumble Cask Reserve - "BevMo!" Single Barrel Select Barrel: #14116 Proof: 141.2 Finish: New French Oak Age: 66 Months (5.5 Years) Source: Balcones Distilling (Waco, Texas) Price: $56.00 Today we depart from whiskey again for the first time since Episode 24, although not quite as dramatically as last time. While our last departure was a full-blooded rum, today's spirit resides in a category of it's own, and I am naming it "Brumsky." What is that I hear? Did you say that "Rumble" is already an obvious attempt to combine spirit categories into a catchy name? Of this I am painfully aware, my friend, but I am coining a name of my own because of my unquenchable, pathetic desire to be special and unique. Moving on... More of a brandy/rum/mead hybrid than anything else, Balcones' Rumble is a spirit distilled from Texas wildflower honey, turbinado sugar, and mission figs. While Balcones is primarily a whiskey producing distillery, there is a notable lack of grain in the mash bill, making this spirit very much not a whiskey. If the distillation of each ingredient were completed separately and later combined in a barrel, this would indeed be a blend of fig brandy, high proof mead, and shitty American rum. I admittedly have no idea how Rumble is made, and I am tired this morning, so I will not be looking it up. Figure it out yourself. For now, it will remain a brumsky. In true Balcones fashion, this brumsky is bottled at a hazmat proof of 141.2 (70.6% ABV), and is dark enough that light can't penetrate the distillate even when held up to a window. However, the aggressive flavors packed into this distilled collection of cheese board sides certainly penetrate the palate and soul, leaving me feeling ravaged and bare. The pot-distilled spirit is finished in a new French oak barrel, a luxury normally reserved for Balcones' most premium single malts. French oak is special because it is from France. Wrapped in a handsome, purple label and garnished with a single barrel store pick sticker, the humble presentation is elegant but simple. Upon initial sniffage, big notes of warm, dark berries drift from the glass, reminding me specifically of the round, chocolate covered acai or blueberry snacks that I sometimes see at fancier grocery stores. There is a slightly tart note that lives in the back of the nose, bringing to mind under-ripe blackberries. That tartness makes my mouth water, much like an overly sour granny smith apple would. I might be picking up some green apple jolly rancher in there as well-- the specifics can be left to interpretation, but there is definitely a candy note present. On top of that, I am surprised to find some rum-adjacent notes that resemble a few of Worthy Park's lower ester offerings. American rums tend to be overly sweet and oaky, or just not very good, so this is a pleasant surprise. Upon the initial sip, my palate is on fire. AHHHHHHHHH. After a successful revival by the local fire department, I return for a second sip. Not so bad this time. There can be no mistaking it-- this is is one hot spirit, but it isn't overly fumy. The heat is pure flavor, not ethanol vapor, a trait that I have come to love and expect from Balcones. Caramel and fruity faux-caramel are present as well, much like the red exterior of a caramel apple at a carnival. A medicinal cherry lingers on the finish, and it is admittedly not my favorite, but the finish as a whole is magnificent. There is SO much flavor present here, and it's hard not to like what I'm experiencing. The proof combined with the quality of the spirit makes for a complete sensory overload, triggering every taste bud. This brumsky is biting me harder than I'm biting it, and I like it*moans*. At the end of the day, this single cask reserve (creative marketing language) of Rumble is a lot to process, and most certainly not a casual sipper, but it's a very pleasant experience all around. Highly recommended. Closing Impression: At some point I will hopefully be able to stop disclaiming that Balcones is not for everyone, but today is not that day. The people need to hear it so they don't hurt their delicate palates. This brumsky is best served to those with a curiosity for new things and a tolerance for big, bold flavors. I can think of a dozen seasoned whiskey drinkers who would probably not enjoy this creative concoction, and that is okay. I can also think of a dozen people with openminded palates who would be much better equipped to appreciate Rumble for what it is: a wonderfully inventive, flavorful, and exciting bouquet of hot, dark, and fruity flavors. As is the case with many Balcones products, the price is right for this hazmat single barrel product, and I cannot recommend it more fervently from the bang-for-buck perspective. Knowing that the ingredients that go into Balcones' products are high quality and often locally sourced, it is a miracle that they have managed to keep their prices so far below their competitors'. This may not be a full bottle buy for everyone, especially because it is such a niche and dominant flavor profile, so I would recommend splitting a bottle with a few friends. You won't want to miss out on trying this at least once, but having 200ml of this hazmat brumsky stored away for a special occasion sounds like plenty to me. While I have tried too many to count, I am fairly certain that this is one of my favorite Balcones products to date, and I will be keeping an eye out for more barrel picks in the future. Nose: 94/100 Taste: 90/100 Finish: 85/100 Overall: 90/100 [Extraordinary] **Disclaimer: Hazmat Rumble is not for those of loose morals. Unworthy drinkers will burn.
- Episode 36: Bruichladdich Port Charlotte 10 Heavily Peated
The Pot Still Column: Episode 36 Bruichladdich Port Charlotte Heavily Peated 10 Year Islay Single Malt Whisky Batch: Unknown (Distilled in 2007/ Bottled in 2018) Proof: 100 Age: 10 Years Finish: Ex-Bourbon Barrels and French Wine Casks Source: Bruichladdich Distillery (Isle of Islay, Scotland) Price: $72.99 Everybody knows about Bruichladdich, one of the better known Islay distilleries and a pillar of Scottish culture for over 140 years. Bruichladdich (pronounced "brook-LAD-ee") makes its way into the collection of nearly every whisky drinker at some point in his or her life, and is a mainstay at any bar with a decent whisky selection. The ubiquity of the pour makes it almost pointless to review, but I have a bottle, and I am going to do it anyway. You can't stop me because I am the internet. You all know what this whisky tastes like, but I'm going to explain it to you again regardless. Humanity craves direction, and the Column shall provide. Alas, I am losing focus. Let's talk about Bruichladdich's Port Charlotte 10-Year Heavily Peated. Port Charlotte 10 is one of Bruichladdich's flagship products, providing all of the refinement of the distillery's century and a half of production experience with few extra frills. The whisky bears a humble age statement of 10 years, a relatively youthful spirit in comparison with the 12 year standard to which many of Bruichladdich's competitors adhere. The whisky is aged in a combination of ex-bourbon barrels and French wine casks, none of which impart a particularly vibrant color. The whisky is light in hue, bearing a straw-like pallor that suggests a lack of artificial coloring. The bottle in which the whisky arrives is an absolute tank, sacrificing the slim elegance of many scotch bottles for a more durable design. Like many other Islay scotches, the glass is green rather than clear, appropriately representing the briny and rough-edged whisky inside. Bruichladdich may be best known for its Octomore releases, a line of uber-peated and limited scotch whiskies released on a yearly basis. The Octomore line has earned Bruichladdich a reputation for using heavily smoked barley, a characteristic written into the name of this Port Charlotte offering as well: heavily peated. Port Charlotte 10 Heavily Peated reportedly has a peat presence of 40ppm (parts per million), but a whisky's peat concentration tends to decrease in the time between distillation and bottling. For reference and comparison, Ardbeg 10 has a peat level of around 55ppm, Lagavulin 16 is around 35ppm, and Octomore has a ridiculous concentration of approximately140ppm. Friends with whom I have enjoyed Port Charlotte 10 have commented that it is extraordinarily peaty, but I have to disagree. Having tried several batches of Octomore and various releases from Laphroaig, I find Port Charlotte 10 to be moderate, if not somewhat delicate, in its smoke presence. It can be likened more to a loving kiss on the cheek from your cigarette-addicted grandmother than a mouthful of tailpipe fumes. Delicate or not, this whisky is undeniably smoky, and any consumer, veteran or newbie, would be likely to agree. The nose is crisp and peaty, and the smoke presents cleanly rather than mustily or darkly. Like with many scotches, there is a clear note of green apple complemented by a citric tartness that balances out the smoke. There is a very subtle note of vanilla that reminds me, unfortunately, of some unpleasant whiskeys that I have tried in the past. My experiences have shown that peated whiskey made improperly develops a proteinaceous vanilla scent, especially when finished in first-fill oak casks. Something about the interaction of the vanillins from the oak with the peat smoke from the barley produces an undesirable outcome. The worst example of this that I have encountered to date has been a certain Colorado distillery that rhymes with String Florty Flor, the whiskey from which made me consider sobriety. Thankfully, further sniffing reveals that the scent of which I speak is not as prevalent as I initially feared, and my concern may have been little more than an untimely trauma flare-up. Upon tasting it, I am pleasantly reminded that Port Charlotte 10 is bottled at a generous ABV of 50%. Finding scotch whiskies, especially popular ones, at such a high proof is very uncommon, and most comparable scotches tend to hover in the dreaded 80 to 86 proof range. The seemingly negligible increase in alcohol from 43% to 50% makes an enormous difference, boosting the flavors and creating a significantly fuller experience. The peat is just as strong in the flavor as it is on the nose, but a dense, musty, and rich malt flavor replaces the crisp fruit notes that I discovered initially. The smoke is fresh and vegetal, surprisingly organic compared to the frequently ashy profile of other Islay scotches. Some of the peaty vanilla mix does make its way into the taste, leaving me slightly on edge, but never culminating into anything unpleasant. As is common in many Islay whiskies, the finish is everlasting and flavorful, echoing the smoky notes of the whisky long after it is gone. Closing Impression: Holy hell, I love Islay scotch. There is very little else more satisfying than the smokiness of a peaty whisky, unless of course one hasn't developed the taste for it. If that is the case, I implore such individuals to figure that shit out because they are missing out on some of the greatest flavors on the planet. Port Charlotte 10 is a fine example of an Islay scotch that satisfies entirely below the $100 mark. It is becoming more difficult to find any peated whisky for such a price, and even long-time standards such as Lagavulin 16 have crossed the threshold in some markets. For around $70, Port Charlotte Heavily Peated is a reasonable buy. Admittedly, it is tough to compare it to other whiskies in its age and proof range. For instance, Wild Turkey 101 bourbon is aged for up to 8 years and bottled at and just over 100 proof, but it can be found for under $20. Of course, it is silly to compare scotch to bourbon, but it does help put things into perspective as a consumer. Bruichladdich, however, is not in the business of making bourbon, and the cost of its products is very good for the scotch market. While Port Charlotte 10 isn't reinventing the wheel, I would recommend this "budget" Islay whisky to anyone with an interest in peat with no hesitation. Nose: 86/100 Taste: 87/100 Finish: 88/100 Overall: 87/100 (Great)
- Episode 35: Garrison Brothers Single Barrel Cask Strength Honeydew Bourbon
The Pot Still Column: Episode 35 Garrison Brothers Single Barrel Cask Strength Honeydew Bourbon "My First Texas Honey" Selected by San Diego Bourbon & Scotch Sharing Proof: 121.6 Age: 8 Years Finish: Texas Wildflower Honey Source: Garrison Brothers Distillery (Hye, Texas) Price: $186.99 Who doesn't love Garrison Brothers? A lot of people-- that's who. The fast-aged, sun-tortured bourbon from Hye, Texas has won the hearts of many whiskey drinkers across the country, but just as many are turned off by the overwhelmingly oaky profile. Garrison Brothers distinguishes itself by using food-grade corn in its mash bill, a decision that seems genius to some consumers and wasteful to others. The distillery markets itself as the source of the best damn bourbon on the planet, a claim that walks the line between good old Western confidence and arrogant bravado. Whether their claims are accurate or not, the company prices their products as though there is no doubt that they make the best damn bourbon on the planet, and even their humblest offering cannot be found for less than $80. Finally, the website makes no secret of the company's conservative values and religious affiliation, a collection of traits that appeals to some folks, but makes others wary. Garrison Brothers is a loud, brash, and potent product, both in spirit and substance, so it is no surprise that their bourbon is so divisive. I happen to enjoy Garrison Brothers' bourbons, or at least most of them. When I first dipped my toes into the whiskey hurricane in which I am now slowly drowning, Garrison Brothers opened my eyes to the atypical possibilities of bourbon outside of the mainstream. The Texas bourbon set me on a path to explore the craft side of whiskey, and I still follow (and prefer) that path today. In a way, Garrison Brothers helped make me the judgmental, overweight, and financially irresponsible pseudo-alcoholic that I am today. However, I lost my passion for the Texas distillery as my palate developed and I learned that not everything had to hit my taste buds like a baseball bat for me to enjoy it. Today, I own several bottles of Garrison Brothers bourbon, but they spend more time collecting dust than filling glasses. The reason for this is simple: whether they make the best damn bourbon on the planet may be up for debate, but their bourbon is undoubtedly just too damn much sometimes. Part of the reason why I rarely patronize Garrison Brothers Distillery is the price. Buying a four-year-old bourbon for $200 is a big no-can-do, buckaroo, as I imagine the folks at Garrison Brothers would put it. At that price, a bottle of bourbon better shit gold, and as far as I know, bourbons don't shit. While I regularly put my wallet on the chopping block to try young whiskeys from little-known craft distilleries, Garrison Brothers has failed to create a product distinct enough from their standard bourbon to provide me the hopeful excitement that I need to make such a risky purchase. The distillery makes some great products, but most, if not all, taste incredibly similar, removing the thrill of discovery and novelty from the tasting and shopping experience. Like many Texas distilleries, Garrison Brothers bourbon has turned out to be somewhat of a cult whiskey. The bourbon is too expensive to be a "daily drinker," too flashy to be a shelf turd, and not generic enough to be a tater trophy. While Balcones Distillery's home town of Waco may be better known for its cults, Garrison Brothers seems to have gathered an equally outspoken and loyal following in Hye. Those who like Garrison Brothers adore it, and those who dislike it get chased out of town by a horde of cowboys with torches and pitchforks. While it may appeal strongly to many, Garrison Brothers fails to connect with seasoned bourbon drinkers in part because of it's unimpressive age statements. The Texan distillery has had a difficult time aging bourbon for any significant period of time in the Texas heat, and their flagship small batch bourbon is only aged for three years. There are, however, some exceptions to the generally short aging periods, and the subject of today's review is one such exception. "My First Texas Honey" is the first and only cask strength single barrel selection of Garrison Brother's Honeydew Bourbon. The one-of-a-kind barrel was aged for an extended period of 8 Texas Summers, and finished additionally with oak cubes soaked in Texas wildflower honey. Unlike Honeydew which is proofed down to 40% ABV, this honeyed bourbon was bottled at a whopping 121.6 proof, and yielded an incredibly low volume of 39 bottles. Most Garrison Brothers single barrel picks rarely make it past 4 years in the barrel, so the prolonged aging and uncommon finishing process make this a completely unique bottle of bourbon. The nose, as can be expected, is dense with hot, oaky, Texas funk. Examined in comparison with another similarly proofed single barrel, the cask strength Honeydew is tremendously different. The differences far surpassed my expectations, as I fully expected both to taste like the traditional Garrison Brothers profile that I have come to know. Ironically, the barrel that I chose as a control sample was similarly named, "TX Honey," although it lacks the wildflower honey finish of its counterpart. After the shock subsides, I am able to clearly detect a shared foundation between the two bourbons. The difference is that the honey finished bourbon introduces layers of complexity that aren't found in the standard version. The unfinished Garrison Brothers smells bright in comparison to the dark, dusty, and intensely nutty flavors present in the finished pick. Far from peanuts, the nuttiness resembles a hazelnut dessert such as Nutella, or maybe a macadamia nut chocolate. Interestingly enough, I don't recognize any defined notes of honey among the aromas, even with the inescapable expectation bias in play. Instead I find milk chocolate alongside woodland smells of fallen trees and moss. Based on the scent alone, this is hardly recognizable as a bourbon, and the spicy oak notes might lead me to believe that this is an off-profile American single malt if tasted blindly. Whether I like the entire product has not yet been decided, but the complexity that I encounter on the nose is a rare treat, both from this distillery and across all of bourbon. On the initial wash, the bourbon is certainly hot, but the heat precedes waves of flavor. In a strange way, the whiskey is delicate, or at least requires a delicate, detailed analysis. Garrison Brothers is usually very bold in its approach, greeting one's taste buds with a few loud but short-lived notes of oak, leather, and dust. This bourbon expresses itself very differently, showing restraint on the palate and presenting almost shyly, especially for the brand. The tannins and sting that I find in the comparison bottle just don't exist on the Honeydew pick, and the flavor is much more approachable. While the honey still doesn't appear explicitly, the Honeydew bourbon is noticeably sweeter which is a welcome addition to the otherwise dark profile. As I begin to formulate scores in my head, I find it difficult to criticize the bourbon because I am enjoying it so much. There is some obvious room for improvement-- the texture could be thicker, the mouthfeel less biting, and the finish more...existent-- but the collective experience is wonderful. Closing Impression: This may very well be the Garrison Brothers bourbon to change the mind of those who generally don't love the distillery. While the unfinished bourbon tastes more traditionally "bourbony," the Honeydew barrel is far more gentle, complex, and welcoming. Even with these redeeming attributes, appreciating this bourbon fully requires some patience and willingness to dissect. I can easily see consumers writing it off as overly funky, off-profile, or downright strange, but a closer look would certainly reveal a job well done. If Garrison Brothers didn't price their whiskey like they hate their customers, this would be a great bourbon to add to anyone's collection. Even so, I can't recommend this bourbon in any official capacity because it simply doesn't exist anywhere outside of the handful of bottles that were made. However, if you manage to track me down, I will pour you a sample. At least that would mean that my SEO is working (I don't think it is). Nose: 91/100 Taste: 92/100 Finish: 82/100 Overall: 88/100
- Episode 34: Bardstown Bourbon Co. - Founder’s KBS Stout Finished Bourbon
The Pot Still Column: Episode 34 Bardstown Bourbon Co. - Straight Bourbon Whiskey Finished in Founders KBS Stout Barrels Batch: 1 of 1 (Limited Collaboration) Proof: 110 Age: NAS Source: Undisclosed Tennessee Distillery (George Dickel) Price: $159.99 Bardstown Bourbon Co. is one of the fastest growing distilleries in the United States, and its recent acquisition of Green River Distillery and its extant distillation contracts has only catapulted it further forward in the world of bourbon. The blending operation is best known for its well-acclaimed Discovery series, but its limited and uniquely finished Collaborative Series is close behind in popularity. Some of the most successful collaborations to date have been the Prisoner wine and Maison Ferrand Cognac finished bourbons, but many others have been released. In 2022, Bardstown released a 10-year-old Tennessee bourbon finished in barrels that once held KBS stout beer from Founder's Brewing Company. Today we will explore that very bourbon! Whenever a sourced whiskey is distilled in Tennessee, one would be wise to bet that it was made by George Dickel. While Bardstown doesn't always reveal the source of its base spirits, there is little doubt that their Founder's cask finished bourbon is a Dickel product. The minerality that appears in the flavor profile seems to support this theory. As for the finish, it is certainly reminiscent of a stout beer. I had the pleasure of trying my first KBS stout just a few months ago, so the picture is still somewhat fresh in my mind. I have never been a big fan of beer, but imperial stouts do have a special place in my heart, and the love definitely extends to stout-finished whiskeys. This isn't the first stout finished whiskey to be reviewed on this account, and a stouted single malt from Rogue Spirits can be found just a few episodes back. Stouts are some of the most dramatically impactful finishing agents currently used in whiskey, and their presence is hardly ever subtle. This limited release from Bardstown is far from subtle, but it does manage to avoid the overly sweet, syrupy qualities of many stout-finished whiskeys. This is even more surprising considering the generous finishing time of 15 months. On the nose, this thing is waxy, peppery, and loaded with molasses. The whiskey is defined by an unsurprisingly stout-like sweetness, and a careful sniff reveals beery molasses notes much like the syrupy residue in an empty bottle of KBS. While it isn't a dominant note, the beery quality does synthesize a hemp-like note on top of everything else. The flavor is more subdued than I thought it would be based on the smell. As expected, the texture is indeed waxy, and the flavors don't pop as much as I hoped that they would. The finish is weak, leaving a completely flavorless dusting on the tongue-- a surprising fact considering the potent stout finish. The Dickel minimality comes through on the taste, and it does complement the dark, beery flavors of the finish quite well. The base spirit shines through the finish well enough, and the entire product is well balanced, despite the uneventful finish. Closing Impression: This is a tough whiskey to score because of the severe discrepancies that exist between the nose, taste, and finish. The nose, while pleasant, is lacking in depth and potency, only hinting at what should be a very pronounced bouquet of dark flavors. The taste is the best part of the experience, providing the most bang for buck, and introducing the flavors of the base spirit in a positive manner. The finish, which I expected to explode with beery flavors, is completely devoid of life, dragging down the experience immensely. This bottle came from a friend who very kindly passed it my way after hearing me speak very highly of it in a previous review. Clearly this bottle has changed tremendously, and not in the best of ways. While most of my bourbons have improved with some oxygen, this one seems to have lost its better qualities, and time has tamed its flavors. The only Bardstown Bourbon Co. product remotely worth its retail price that I have tried has been the Prisoner wine finished bourbon, but even that was a stretch. Charging $159.99 for a bottle of moderately aged bourbon is stupid, and the practice should be discouraged. Ten-year-old Dickel can be obtained for relatively little cost, and finishes, while often exotic, are not so horribly expensive that they should drive a whiskey over the $150 mark. Bardstown Bourbon Co. is demanding all but a first-born child for a whiskey that, while creative, simply does not hit the mark. Nose: 75/100 Taste: 81/100 Finish: 67/100 Overall: 74/100 (Just okay - flawed but pleasant)
- Episode 33: Clyde May's [Conecuh Ridge Distillery] 13 Year Limited Release Alabama Style Whiskey
The Pot Still Column:: Episode 33 Clyde May's 13 Year Alabama Style Whiskey Batch: Limited Release (2021) Proof: 120 Age: 13 Years Finish: Dried Apples Source: MGP (Lawrenceburg, Indiana) Price: $139.99 I first heard of Clyde May's whiskey when I saw a glowing review of their 13-year cask strength bourbon. When I saw this bottle on the shelf at a local liquor chain, I bought it without hesitation, thinking it was the same bourbon that I had seen reviewed. As it turns out, it is not the same whiskey, nor is it bourbon at all. Nonetheless, it is quite the tasty pour. While Clyde May's does have a selection of bourbon whiskeys, the bottle at hand is a finished style of spirit that they have dubbed "Alabama Style Whiskey." As the story goes, Clyde May was a guy who made whiskey, and he developed a method of finishing American whiskey by placing dried apples in the aging barrels. I don't care much for distillery stories (which are far more heinous than fishermen's tales) so I won't discuss it further. The modern legacy of the alleged historical event is Clyde May's Alabama Style Whiskey, a product of Lawrenceburg, Indiana. While there is zero doubt that this 13-year old whiskey is sourced from MGP of Indiana, Clyde May's has recently broken ground on a brand new distillery and home base in Troy, Alabama. Based on press releases from last year (2022), it seems that the company plans to begin in-house distillation alongside their sourcing program. The first batch of genuine Clyde May's distillate is projected to hit shelves in 2027, hinting at a commitment to breaching the 4-year mark for their inaugural release. Before I begin, I must admit that I have always thought of Clyde May's whiskey as a shelf-turd item. For those who need clarification, that means that I considered it to be a whiskey that is consistently passed over in the search for other, better whiskeys. With so many multicolored variations and a name as suspicious as "Alabama Style Whiskey," it seemed like nothing more than a bottom-shelf newbie-magnet. For all I know, the rest of their product line may very well be just that, but it is difficult to consider anything with a 13-year age statement a "shelf turd." Fortunately, turds do not appear on the nose. Instead, I am met with classic bourbon notes that lean heavily toward the scents found in light whiskeys such as those bottled by Obtainium of Cats Eye Distillery. I normally enjoy light whiskey, identifiably by its strong, brittle vanilla notes, and this is no exception. Most light whiskey on the market is either Canadian or from MGP, so I am not surprised that I recognize the scents in this particular glass of sourced MGP. While the addition of apples prevents this Alabama Style Whiskey from being labeled as a bourbon, I suspect that no bourbon went into its production regardless. The characteristic brightness of the whiskey suggests that it may be nothing more than a light whiskey from MGP. Other scents present in the nose include butterscotch and, yes...dried apple slices. The flavors closely resemble an Indiana light whiskey as well, aligning closely with the smell. The texture is viscous and sugary, interacting with the entire palate and burning a little bit on the back. Interestingly, the the caramel and vanilla flavors slip away on the finish, leaving behind a slightly medicinal cherry note. I am not sure if I like that particular element of the experience. Something about the finish and flavor is a bit bitter and astringent, leaving me slightly uncomfortable at the end of each sip. The flavors themselves are excellent, and I thoroughly enjoy the way that the caramels and vanillas play nicely with the apple notes. Closing Impression: The overall profile is very sweet, landing this firmly in the dessert whiskey category, but it would likely be a crowd pleaser. There is nothing foreign or mysterious about this whiskey, and it will likely land in many consumers' comfort zones because of its origins at MGP of Indiana. Commercially speaking, this is quite good, although it doesn't tickle my palate the way I hoped it would. Several friends of mine have thrown their support behind this whiskey, so it clearly appeals to at least a small portion of the market. The flavors are pleasant but wither away prematurely, leaving the finish bitter and medicinal. Because of the high retail price, I can confidently say that this whiskey is not worth the splurge, but it is definitely a fun spirit to try at a bar or share with friends. Nose: 72/100 Taste: 75/100 Finish: 71/100 Overall: 73/100
- Episode 32: Cask & Coast Reserve Four-Grain Blend
The Pot Still Column: Episode 32 Cask & Coast Reserve Four-Grain Blend California Blended Bourbon Whiskey Batch: #1 Proof: 102 Age: NAS Finish: California Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc Wine Casks Price: $69.99 A friend of mine slipped a bottle of this bourbon into my hands at a recent bottle share and requested that I review it. How could I say no? Cask & Coast Spirits (CCS) is an independent bottling company located in San Diego, CA. I normally try to avoid reviewing local spirits and businesses in an effort to unconditionally support local distilleries, but this bourbon is made in the great state of Indiana, so I will make an exception. From what I can gather from the Cask & Coast website, this Four-Grain Reserve Blend is the first and only release from Cask & Coast Spirits. Some further sleuthing shows that the company was founded just over a year ago (2021), so it makes sense that they are still on their first release. The bourbon at hand is a non-age-stated product distilled and aged by MGP of Indiana, and secondarily finished in California wine casks on the west coast. The casks in which the bourbon is finished are a mix of ex-Cabernet Sauvignon and ex-Cabernet Franc barrels. My uncultured ass doesn't know what Cabernet Franc is, and I'm not going to look it up, but I'm sure it tastes good. I haven't seen any other bourbons touting a finish in Cabernet Franc barrels, so I am curious to see how the wine reacts with the spirit. Other than that, the bourbon is modestly cut to 102 proof, and boasts a four-grain mash bill of corn, wheat, rye, and barley. The color is a little light for a wine-finished product, so I am going to gamble that this bourbon was not aged long in new oak barrels. Maybe 3 or 4 years including the finishing process. While everybody knows by now that I am tired of MGP products and hate seeing the market dominated by sourced bourbon, I am finding a soft spot in my heart for this local brand. Before I even get into tasting the whiskey, I must commend Cask & Coast Spirits for being transparent about their products. Notably, the state of distillation is displayed prominently and centrally on the back label-- a clear deviation from the many sourced whiskeys that employ the smallest and most discreet print possible. The product is consistently advertised as a blend of Indiana bourbons, and the company has never claimed to be a manufacturing distillery. All of these things are great signs, and I appreciate the ease with which I can learn what I am buying when looking at this bottle. The glass itself is very attractive as well, reminding me of the vessels used by Sagamore Spirits. On the nose, the wine finish is obvious but not overwhelming. If anything, it is subtle, its presence betrayed only by an exaggerated, slightly tannic tartness. Underneath the wine there are notes of banana, peanuts (very minimal), vanilla icing, and faux cherry. The nose is somewhat sharp, although not in an ethanol-forward way. It merely presents very crisply, much like a concentrated whiff of winter mint might interact with one's senses. The whiskey bears none of the old, sour wine notes that sometimes ruin wine-finished spirits, meaning the finishing process was successful and beneficial. I am not entirely sure that I would be able to identify this as an MGP product if I tasted it blindly, and that makes me happy. The sensory experience of tasting this whiskey is interesting. The unadulterated bourbon hits the palate first, revealing the banana, cherry, and nut flavors immediately. The wine finish appears as the whiskey goes down, continuing into the finish for a short while before receding into a neutral, somewhat dry oak. The initial burst of un-finished bourbon flavors are intriguingly misleading, making me expect a dustier and oakier profile than there turns out to be. I appreciate the dynamic drinking experience, and the bourbon does have quite a bit of complexity, especially for a young MGP product. The finish, while not at all unpleasant, is a little short. Even so, it avoids the overly tannic and oaky characteristics that many wine-finished bourbons exhibit. Closing Impression: Overall, this is a satisfying bourbon that departs from the norm by introducing a dual wine finish to an otherwise very common distillate. While not entirely groundbreaking, the bourbon tastes better than just about all of the independently bottled MGP bourbons that I have tried at this proof. The proof itself is a positive factor, and I think the Cask & Coast team nailed it by choosing to bottle at 102 proof. The wine finishes add tremendously to the experience, and they do a great job of hiding any youth that the bourbon may otherwise have displayed. I prefer this whiskey to several other big-name, MGP-sourced bourbons currently on the market. At $69.99, Cask & Coast is decently priced, although it would be a better bargain at $50. Wine finishing can be an expensive process, and there are plenty of unfinished MGP products that sell for ten to twenty dollars more than this four-grain bourbon, so the price is reasonable. I don't like the idea of a "daily drinker" whiskey because of the term's obvious implications of overconsumption, but this is a daily drinker if I have ever seen one. **Note: After completing this review, I returned to this bottle twice more by choice which says something. Nose: 85/100 (Great) Taste: 82/100 (Good) Finish: 77/100 (Pretty Good) Overall: 81/100 (Good - Above average) *Thanks to Shea N. for supplying the bottle for this review.
- Episode 31: Ironroot Republic Distillery - Harbinger Cask Strength Straight Bourbon Whiskey
The Pot Still Column: Episode 31 Ironroot Republic Distillery - Harbinger Cask Strength Straight Bourbon Whiskey Batch: 22B Proof: 115 Age: 2 Years, 8 Months Finish: None Source: Ironroot Republic Distillery (Denison, Texas) Price: $49.99 I was really excited to see Ironroot Harbinger on the shelves of my local big-box liquor store, as I had been meaning to try it ever since it won World's Best Bourbon in 2020. How could I not have been excited? Those awards are always perfect, unbiased reflections of a whiskey's quality, completely immune to the influence of monetary gain... right? Fortunately, this purchase was worth my while, and I am happy to have the bottle in my collection. Is it worthy of the acclaim that it has gathered? We shall see. Pulled straight from the Texan distillery's website, Ironroot Harbinger is the non-chill filtered flagship bourbon from Ironroot Distilling, and the first whiskey that the company ever released. The mash bill is comprised of purple corn, bloody butcher corn, flint corn, non-GMO yellow dent corn, and rye. That's a lot of corn. While the ages of past batches have varied, my bottle (Batch 22B) is 32 months old, aged in new American oak, and bottled at 115 proof. This is not a single barrel product, so I can assume that there is some uniformity across batches. Ironroot proudly claims to employ French Brandy techniques in its distillation, an apparent ode to Denison's historic role in the salvation of Cognac grapes from a parasitic infection. Who knows? Not me. We're here to talk about bourbon (again...ugh). Just as Texas toys with the idea of seceding from the United States, the State (Republic?) strives to differentiate itself from the rest of American whiskey by bestowing qualifying distilleries with the distinction of "Certified Texas Whiskey." Ironroot is part of this unofficial guild, as it is 100% distilled in Texas, unlike those commie bastards sourcing Kentucky/Indiana swill at Devil's River. I'm not sure what in tarnation they think they're doing, but they don't get to put the silver sticker of pureblooded Texan legitimacy on their bottles. Let's get into the nose. I just spilled some of this on my Mac, goddammit--- don't swirl too hard, kids. At least it smells good! Big notes of wet brown sugar, leather, and Texas oak waft off of my MacBook Pro. Dark, slightly bitter vanilla is present as well, reminding me more of an unprocessed vanilla pod than the sweet extract. The corn impact is huge, and the scent of sweet, creamy cornmeal comes to mind. The taste is full of the same notes that showed up in the nose, and the proof is not too hot. The flavor is well balanced, and there is far less astringent oak than I normally expect from an aged Texas spirit. That being said, there is no mistaking that this is from Texas, subdued as it may be compared to brands such as Balcones and Garrison Brothers. There is a bold, crafty note that betrays the use of grains outside of the mainstream. The flavors are hipster enough to make a cowboy roll over in his grave. The bottle wears a cowboy hat and boots, but the whiskey inside wears beanies and paints its nails black. Closing Impression: So what do I think of this bottle? It's pretty yummy, if I may say. Even so, I am finding a weak spot at the back of each sip that drives my appreciation of the whiskey down. Rather than peaking appropriately with a rich, rear-palate flavor crescendo, the Harbinger fizzles out just before coming fully to fruition. I am left feeling like it jogged across the finish line when it should've sprinted all the way. Being a Texas bourbon, it is much more flavorful and bold than most bourbon products, especially in its price range. The finish is quite nice, albeit a little drying. There are no noticeable faults or rough edges. Everything about the experience is good, but the whiskey falls slightly shy of being great-- it's just a matter of personal preference. Also, the cork is really hard to pull off, and that's stupid. Nose: 83 Taste:82 Finish: 82 Overall: 82/100 [Good - Above average]
- Episode 30: Rogue Spirits Rolling Thunder Cask Strength Stouted American Single Malt (2020 Bottling)
The Pot Still Column: Episode 30 Rogue Rolling Thunder Cask Strength Stouted American Single Malt "Hi-Time Wine Cellars" Barrel #1 (2020) Proof: 113.5 Age: NAS (2 to 3 Years) Source: Rogue Spirits (Newport, Oregon) Price: $74.99 Stouted whiskey seems to be popping up more frequently nowadays, although opinions on the beer-finished whiskey style are all over the place. Bardstown Bourbon Co. recently released a Founder's Brewing KBS Stout finished bourbon last year, and Westward has long had a stouted single malt as part of their core line. Rogue Spirits, another Oregon brewstillery primarily known for its beers, is one of the newest players in the stouted whiskey game. Rogue takes in-house production to the next level, and regardless of their product, I have a deep respect for their dedication to the craft. The process begins with the production of Rogue's Dead Guy Whiskey, a malt product rested for two years in Oregon oak barrels made at the distillery's private cooperage. After two years, the whiskey is dumped and the barrel is repurposed to age Rogue's Rolling Thunder Imperial Stout. Once the stout is ready to roll and the barrel is properly soaked, the vessel is repurposed a third time to finish the Dead Guy Whiskey that it originally held. The result is a very obviously stout-finished malt whiskey designed with beer lovers in mind. The nose on the Rolling Thunder Stouted Whiskey is bold. The profile consists of syrupy molasses, dark baking spices, oak char, and an unmistakable beer quality. If someone is looking for a subtly finished whiskey, this is not it, but anyone who enjoys stout beer will undoubtedly enjoy this as well. Beneath the sweetness, the nose contains a thin note of salty brine, making the overall presentation more savory in nature. The taste is all stout, very dark malt, and spicy, wet wood. The woodiness doesn't taste like pure oak, but instead has a more pungent, bitter, and exciting note of exotic hardwood--- something red maybe. This tastes much like the expensive wood at Home Depot smells. I have a soft spot for beery whiskeys, but I know that many consumers find it unpleasant. What I have here is so intensely beery that it is almost more of a beer than a whiskey. That being said, the flavors are beautiful and rich, and I am enjoying the pour thoroughly. The finish is pleasantly beery as well, and lasts forever on the palate. Closing Impression: I very much like this stout finished malt whiskey, but I can easily see how many folks would not care for it at all. It threatens to be overly sweet, especially for those who prefer a drier whiskey, but it is nicely balanced by the complexity of the finish. The base spirit is completely overwhelmed by the stout to the point where I have no idea what it might taste like alone. While this might sound concerning, and it would be if the final product tasted bad, I am content in knowing that whatever flavors may be present in the base spirit blend exceedingly well with the Rolling Thunder finish. Another point in Rogue's favor is the transparency with which they design their labels. The entire story of how the whiskey is made is scripted on the side of the bottle, and the website provides all of the vital details about the spirit. Would I buy this again? Hell yes! People are willing to sacrifice their first-born child to get a bottle of Bardstown's limited releases, but Rolling Thunder Stouted Whiskey provides an equally great (if not better) alternative, sacrifice free. For just under $80.00, Rogue's finished expression is not cheap, but I believe that the asking price is fair considering the work that has gone into its production. I don't buy backups, but if I did, I would buy a backup of this extraordinary but niche malt whiskey. For anyone who loves stout beer and enjoys straying from the beaten path, this is a bottle to find. Nose: 91/100 Taste: 91/100 Finish: 91/100 Overall: 91/00 [Extraordinary]
- Episode 29: Barrell Armida (Batch 3)
The Pot Still Column: Episode 29 Barrell Armida (Batch 3) - Bourbon Finished in Pear, Brandy Rum, and Sicilian Amaro Casks Proof: 113.9 Age: NAS Source: Undisclosed TN Distillery, (likely George Dickel) Price: $89.99 Barrell Bourbon Distillery has been experiencing a rapid ascent to fame since their launch in 2013, and has become one of the most highly-acclaimed independent bottlers and blenders in the industry. Barrell Bourbon is known for producing creatively blended and finished bourbons, ryes, and American whiskeys, and several of their limited edition releases have made serious waves among whiskey aficionados. Last year, Barrell's Seagrass (2021) sent consumers into a temporary frenzy following a glowing review by whiskey reviewer and Total Wine sellout, Fred Minnick. This year's Vantage release has caught some traction as well, and previous releases such as Dovetail (2019) and the American Vatted Malt (2019) have been met with varying levels of excitement. Limited releases such as Barrell's Gold Label and Gray Label whiskeys continue to be in high demand, and it is not uncommon to find privately selected blends and single barrels over 14 years of age. However, one Barrell Bourbon release that has failed to catch the same level of traction is Barrell Armida, a blend of bourbon whiskeys finished in casks of pear brandy, Jamaican rum, and Sicilian Amaro. The most likely explanation for such a heavily and exotically finished bourbon failing to succeed in a world that loves finished whiskey is that the primary ingredient is sourced from none other than George Dickel (allegedly). I won't bother trying to convince America that George Dickel makes decent whiskey, but I will comment that Barrell's source for Armida does not in any way detract from the blend's quality. If anything, I think the minerality introduced by the Tennessee distillate complements the fruity finishes tremendously. The blenders at Barrell Bourbon know what they're doing, and choosing Dickel (allegedly) as the base spirit for this blend was no accident. Or maybe it was, I don't know-- I don't work for them. Dickel or Dickel-less, Barrell Armida is an impressively complex spirit with lots to offer to a bourbon consumer body that practically worships finished whiskey. If you don't believe me, look no further than the Four Gate Whiskey Company which has been getting away with selling sourced and finished whiskey (sound familiar?) for $200 per bottle at retail. Joseph Magnus Cigar Blend is a more extensively aged whiskey with a three-part finish similar to Armida, and it regularly sells for over $300. Other brands are coming out with finished options as well, some more recent examples of which are Doc Swinson's, Wild Turkey (the Master's Keep Collection), and Old Elk. On the nose, Armida is fruity and vibrant, exhibiting notes of just about everything that is written on the label. It is definitely bourbon, and definitely Dickel (allegedly), but the base spirit has been dramatically altered by the multiple layers of secondary finishing. Pear notes reminiscent of Calvados brandy are easily detectable, and a syrupy amalgamation of sweet spices hints at the use of Amaro casks. The rum finish is slightly more difficult to detect, and would probably be impossible to find for bourbon drinkers unfamiliar with the Jamaican spirit. Despite Barrell's use of Jamaican rum barrels, there is no evidence of a high ester spirit being used, and the notes I find align more closely with Guyana rum than a stereotypically funky Jamaican rum. Those notes include soft, tropical fruit (guava?), extremely subtle, industrial, chemical smells, and a buttery roundness unique to rum. As the glass empties, an interesting note of Sprite soda appears, and ground pepper becomes more prominent. The taste is on a whole different level, popping like one of those fruity boba bubbles sometimes offered as toppings by fancy frozen yogurt shops. Pineapple coats the tongue immediately, bringing me closer to believing that the blenders used Jamaican rum during the finishing process. A complex smoothie of tropical fruits ensues, less acidic than expected. I can still pick out the Dickel base through the fruit (allegedly), and the grainy minerality provides a very nice base for the "wetter" fruit juice flavors. If the experience of drinking this were charted on a line-graph, it would be jagged and erratic, as different flavors pop out jarringly and unexpectedly from sip to swallow. The cask strength of 113.9 proof is both manageable and hot, presenting with more grace on certain areas of the palate than others. For example, the front of my palate barely notices the heat, but the roof of my mouth is going more and more numb with every sip. The finish is medium in length and slightly drying, but overall very nice. It leaves the tongue with a fruity, waxy coating. Closing Impression: I do not understand why more people don't own this whiskey. There is so much going on in both the nose and palate, and it seems to align with the interests of the average American whiskey consumer. Perhaps the price tag is too demanding at nearly $90, but there is no secondary-market-driven price inflation for this bottle, and I have seen it around enough to know that it is available. The once-limited release is now a regular release, so the odds of running into a bottle are not bad, depending on one's location. All things considered, I think $90 is a pretty fair price for the quality that I find in this bottle, especially considering the uncommon finishes. The only down sides are that the whiskey can seem a little thin at times, and the nose takes some digging to explore. Nose: 77/100 Taste: 90/100 Finish: 86/100 Overall: 84/100 [Good - Above average with some room for improvement]
- Episode 28: Jack Daniel's Twice Barreled American Single Malt
The Pot Still Column: Episode 28 Jack Daniel's Twice Barreled Special Release American Single Malt (2022) Limited Bottle No.: ASM-35767 Proof: 106.8 Age: NAS Finish: Oloroso Sherry Casks Source: Jack Daniel's Distillery (Lynchburg, Tennessee) Price: $59.99 I have been looking forward to this year's special release from Jack Daniel's since they first announced that it would be a 100% malt whiskey. Malt whiskey, whether Scottish, Irish, American, or other, is by far my favorite category of distilled grain spirits. So when Jack Daniel's (JD) decided to take barley off the bench and let it play, I was ecstatic. While the world may not have expected Jack Daniel's, one of the most iconic bourbon* distilleries on the planet, to produce a malt whiskey, their decision to explore malt spirits makes sense following the wildfire popularity of the American single malt. Other American distilleries such as Westward, Westland, Balcones, and Stranahan's have been making an enormous impact on the American single malt category; a genre so successful that it would inevitably capture the attention of larger distilleries. Jack Daniel's has been making creative moves in the American whiskey industry for a short while now, releasing a their Single Barrel Barrel Proof Rye in 2020 and Coy Hill in 2021, both of which were tremendous successes. Bottles of prior years' special releases can still be found floating around the secondary market and at the occasional bottle share, and their value has only increased with time. In short, Jack Daniel's has not only been making creative moves, but they have been subtly redefining the industry by adding some flexibility to the somewhat stagnant traditions of goliath American distilleries. Big distilleries encroaching on traditionally "craft" territory such as the American single malt could go a variety of ways. The two that I can most easily envision are as follows. Big Bourbon's attempts at mastering the American Single Malt could either cheapen the art, or take it to heights never before seen--- perhaps to the point of out-selling and out-distilling the original founders of the category. If JD, Buffalo Trace, MGP, and other heavy hitters start mass-producing single malt whiskeys, they could easily fall into the habit of cutting corners, sourcing poor quality grain, and essentially agreeing to a universal standard of production. Shelves would be flooded with hype-driven, loveless 90-proofers, Buffalo Trace would name theirs Mr./Dr./Colonel-something, and MGP would simply not talk about theirs. (In fact, MGP already distills a single malt product---we just never see it!) Alternatively, big distilleries could find themselves perfectly suited to single malt distillation, and they could expand upon the success of the category. Such new endeavors may even trigger a long-awaiting healing process for these distilleries, forcing them to slow down and think more about their products for the sake of creating something new and exciting. Jack Daniel's success with rye and its other limited releases suggests that they may stand a chance to succeed in this regard. Anyway, you've made it this far. Good job! Let's talk about some whiskey. This is not a fresh crack for me, and I took some time to explore this Twice Barreled Single Malt last night. The result? I did not enjoy it. However, I was in a social environment, and certain conditions can dramatically affect one's perspective, so I am clearing my slate and giving this whiskey a fresh start. Presentation is a pleasure when it comes to Jack Daniel's special releases. The squat bottle is the same one used for JD's single barrel releases, both at 94 proof and cask strength. In fact, I think the only JD release to use this bottle that isn't a single barrel is the recently released Coy Hill Small Batch, a 375ml exclusive riding on the coattails of Coy Hill Senior's (not it's actual name) success last year. I may be wrong-- I don't care that much. Either way, 2022's special release features the same decorative pseudo-decanter, a thick wood-topped cork, and an indigo blue label scheme that would make imperialist European explorers shit their pants. Everything about it screams, "class." When I first nosed this, I visibly cringed. The sherry presence is incredibly strong, and the phenolic burnt notes are very exaggerated. I am accustomed to the often delicate sherry finishes found in scotch whisky, and this is nothing like it. Even Edradour, a notoriously over-sherried scotch distillery, would wonder what happened to this poor single malt within Jack Daniel's kinky barrel dungeon. However, my second impression is more forgiving, and the initial shock factor wears off quickly. Stewed cherries and cranberries are richly layered over a relatively neutral malt foundation, not too sour or crisp, but not too dusty and raisin-like. Dry nuts linger in the background, perhaps raw walnuts or chestnuts. The thought of nuts brings trail mix to mind, and the cranberry/craisins note pops out even more prominently. Caramel is present too, along with raspberry-chocolate truffle. I am reminded of a chocolate strawberry jam that I tried once. The sherry ultimately steals the show on the nose, although I wouldn't describe the smells that it produces as particularly wine-like. It isn't a dry Cabernet scent, but more of a processed fruit note. Shock factor aside, this nose is fantastic. The mouthfeel is very rich, and there are no holes in the body of the spirit. A friend who enjoyed this whiskey more than I did during my first tasting described it similarly. I didn't agree at the time, but I see what he meant now. Barley tends to make for viscous, rich, and full-bodied spirits, so I am not surprised that this single malt fits those descriptions. The taste is very sherry-forward, and the burnt notes show up in droves on the palate. The experience of drinking this whiskey is surprisingly difficult to describe, as there are a few stages that transpire from sip to swallow. At first the malt is clean and delicate, but its delicacy is quickly overtaken by charred, phenolic, and somewhat tannic sherry cask notes. The back palate perceives the whiskey as hotter than I would've expected from the front-palate sensations, but the finish cools it down. Very importantly, the abrasive sherry notes die down after some time in the glass, revealing a glimmer of hope. The finish itself is extremely inoffensive, leaving absolutely no tannic oak reside, but providing a clean, dark, wine-forward aftertaste. What a trip this is. Closing Impressions: The same friend mentioned earlier described this as the most complete American single malt that he has ever tried. I can list a dozen American single malt whiskeys straight off the dome that I would rather drink than this on most days. Jack Daniel's first foray into the American single malt category is a success, and I did ultimately enjoy this whiskey a lot. The flavors are bold, embracing the adventurous spirit of the American single malt, and keeping me engaged throughout the entire experience. If anything, Jack Daniel's broke new ground within the genre, producing something that I did not expect, and had not experienced before. This being said, this is a very weird single malt, and I think it lacks the subtlety that could make it great one day. American single malts are not known for their subtleties, but there is always a balance to be struck between boldness and overkill. The sherry finish on this Tennessee single malt was not very artfully done. Something about the sherry finish was overbearing in a slightly too charry and phenolic way. I love a good sherry bomb, but the relatively neutral malt profile of JD's special release accepted the sharper characteristics of the sherry finish too willingly. If I was blindly given this whiskey, I would probably say that I like it very much, but I have been known to praise whiskey simply for being different. Indeed, this is different, but a more systematic analysis does reveal some rough edges that I hope to see filed down if Jack Daniel's chooses to pursue American single malt distillation further. Even then, the whiskey's redeeming qualities are bountiful, and I would ultimately recommend this to anyone as long as they approach with caution. Nose: 90 Taste: 85 Finish: 85 Overall: 87/100 [Great! Undoubtedly special, but rough around the edges.] *yes, it is bourbon
- Episode 27: Wild Turkey Master's Keep "Unforgotten"
The Pot Still Column: Episode 27 Wild Turkey Master's Keep "Unforgotten" Proof: 105 Age: NAS (Blend of 8 to 13 Year Old Whiskeys) Finish: Rye Casks Source: Wild Turkey Distillery (Lawrenceburg, Kentucky) Price: $200.00 When it comes to the distillery's annual, limited edition release, the Master's Keep line, Wild Turkey does not play around in price nor content. Each edition of Master's Keep is distinguished by a unique trait that differentiates it from other Wild Turkey products. Past editions have included secondary finishes, high age statements, and experimental blends. Master's Keep began in 2015 with a 17 year old bourbon, followed by Decades (2017), Revival (2018), Cornerstone Rye (2019), 17 Year Bottled In Bond (2020), and One (2021). The Master's Keep release for 2022, very dramatically dubbed "Unforgotten", is a blend of well-aged bourbons and ryes finished in rye casks. This is the third finished whiskey in the Master's Keep series, as 2018's Master's Keep Revival was finished in sherry casks, and Master's Keep One (2021) was finished in a toasted barrel. The internet has responded to Master's Keep Unforgotten with mixed reviews, and complaints about the additional finishing in a rye barrel seems to be a theme. I find such complaints ironic because finishing a high-rye whiskey in an ex-rye barrel is one of the most benign forms of secondary aging that I can imagine. Finishing this blend of bourbons and ryes in rye barrels is the equivalent of finishing a sherry wine in an ex-sherry butt. I'm sure it makes a difference, but hardly one unorthodox or shocking enough to cry about. Regardless of the finish, the base spirit is comprised of an impressive blend of 13 year old bourbons and 8 to 9 year old ryes. The whiskey is proofed down to 52.5% and bottled in the absolutely gorgeous decanter made famous by the Wild Turkey Master's Keep line. The cork weighs about twenty pounds (an approximation), and makes Frey Ranch's corks tremble in their grain-to-glass boots. Put this sucker in a sock and it's game over. Pomp and circumstance are clearly very important to Wild Turkey when it comes to their super premium limited release, and no expense was spared when designing the box and bottle. The fancy presentation is part of the fun, and the aesthetic pleasure that it gives me makes the price tag a little easier to rationalize. Let's dive into the whiskey which has been sitting in my glass for about 15 minutes at this point. Immediately on the nose, there is no hiding that this is a Wild Turkey product. Classic, slightly tart Wild Turkey notes of dusty barrel house, warm vanilla, and caramel. Additional notes of almond brittle, spicy oak, and bok choy (a light, vegetal flavor) show up as well. The vanilla and oak are definitely the biggest attention seekers of the bunch, and the other notes require some serious digging. I would not describe this nose as particularly complex----it is a no-frills Wild Turkey bourbon at the end of the day----but there is an unmistakable rye backbone. My first sip gets my taste buds very excited, shocking them into awareness. The proof (105) is great for this whiskey, and I wouldn't change it despite typically preferring higher proofs. Again, there is no doubt that this is a Wild Turkey whiskey. That's great because I love Wild Turkey whiskeys. The rye does come through more strongly on the palate than it did on the nose, and there is a very subtle pickle brine to the profile that I very much enjoy. The construction is very balanced, with no unpleasant ethanol layer at the front of the sip, and no heavy oak residue at the back. The finish is submissive to the flavor, giving way fairly quickly in preparation for the next sip, and lurking on the back of the tongue during its brief appearance. Even when the flavor is gone from the finish, the ghost of an oaky rye spice lingers all around for a short while. Closing Impression: I like this! I am not surprised that I like this, and I suspected that I would from the start, but I really do. For fans of Wild Turkey, this will not disappoint, and it is approachable even for those who dislike the flavors of rye. Having most recently tried Master's Keep Decades and Master's Keep One, both of which I did not enjoy at all, 2022's release feels much more balanced. It stays true to the Wild Turkey profile by featuring the dusty wood and caramels present in all their bourbons, but it adds some flair with the inclusion of a rye twist. Is this worth the $200 retail price set by Wild Turkey? Nope. This might be worth the money for a Wild Turkey collector or super-fan, but the average drinker will likely feel like they paid too much, or came out even with the transaction at best. I would take an $80 Russell's Reserve Single Barrel pick over this any day of the week when considering the price, but Wild Turkey Unforgotten is an excellent pour that will surely be appreciated by fans of Wild Turkey looking for a slight but not too daring change of pace. Nose: 84/100 Taste: 86/100 Finish: 86/100 Overall: 85/100 [Great, but not ground-breaking]
- Episode 26: 117° West Cask Strength Single Barrel West Coast Whiskey
The Pot Still Column: Episode 26 117° West Cask Strength Single Barrel West Coast Malt Whiskey "Total Wine & More" Cask #157 Proof: 110 Age: 20 months Finish: None Source: 117° West Spirits (San Diego, CA) Price: $60.00 Reviewing local products is bittersweet and requires some political tact. I am fully committed to speaking truthfully about what I experience, but I also am committed to supporting craft distilleries. The same support applies tenfold for local craft distilleries, so I feel pressure to pull my punches when discussing local products. It's easier to criticize a whiskey when you don't risk meeting the distiller responsible for its production at the grocery store on a Wednesday. Fortunately, 117° West has given me absolutely nothing to criticize with this single barrel pick of their West Coast Whiskey, an American single malt. The whiskey is allegedly inspired by stout beer, and I can totally see the inspiration reflected in the final product. The mash is produced from crystal, chocolate, and roasted barely, and the distillate is aged for a mere 20 months in small oak barrels. As soon as I hear that a mash bill contains chocolate malt, I start to get excited. The chocolate and espresso notes that certain barleys bring out of a whiskey are two of my absolute favorites across spirits of all kinds. Funnily enough, 117° West Spirits is about 45 minutes from my house by car (North, not West), but I haven't had the chance to visit in person just yet. Next time I am in Vista, CA, I'll make sure to allocate some time for a stop. The nose is a beautiful disaster of bold scents compiled into an extremely complex and unique profile. There is so much in here, you could randomly select a flavor and it would likely exist in this single malt. The nose is buttery with an extremely pure note of caramel. Specifically, the caramel scent reminds me of the chocolate caramel cups commonly found as toppings at frozen yogurt shops. Another image that pops into my head is hot caramel apple cider with caramel drizzle in the cup. It's a perfect fit, especially considering the funky herb and spice notes dancing around in the background. Beyond the candied scents, the malt profile contains some confusingly rye-adjacent notes. There is a bright and clean crispness that I have only ever found in malted rye whiskeys, and it happens to be a note that I like very much. Crisp is a good overall descriptor for the whiskey; while the flavors are rich and dark, they also lack the dusty "old" notes found in so many bourbons. I had to walk away from the desk and take a lap after taking my first sip of this. The amount of flavor----and good flavor,----is overwhelming. The chocolate malt explodes on the palate, introducing a dense toasty note. No, it's not a note, it's too big for that. The toastiness is like the stage upon which the other flavors play their parts, and they play them well. A very specific image of cocoa nibs comes to mind, and herbal notes bordering on earl grey tea exist subtly in the background. The sensation on the palate is creamy with no ethanol to be detected, and the finish consists of miles and miles of toasted cocoa nibs. Closing Impression: Before going any further, I must disclaim that this will probably not be a crowd-pleasing whiskey in most circles. There is too much going on, and every sip raises your IQ by at least two points---- most whiskey drinkers aren't looking for that kind of stimulation. However, for those who crave adventure or are just a little whiskey-kinky, this is going to make you scream. Try to keep it together while sipping this cask strength American single malt, as it threatens to lure you into state of eternal ungratefulness for other whiskeys. 117° West is not known for their barrel picks, and I haven't actually seen one released before this collaboration with Total Wine & More, but the future is bright if they intend to continue down this path. For $60.00, this is not only an immediate buy, but a bunker bottle. If I bunkered bottles (I don't), I would grab a backup of this one to stow away, as it is a truly special pour. I will be keeping an eye out for more barrel proof single barrels from 117° West, and I am especially excited to potentially see a higher proof bottling of their malted rye. While this isn't going to be a winner for everyone, it is a rare beauty to my palate, and it won't be difficult to rate this highly. Nose: 96 Taste: 98 Finish: 98 Overall: 97/100 (Unbelievable)