Episode 28: Jack Daniel's Twice Barreled American Single Malt

The Pot Still Column: Episode 28

Jack Daniel's Twice Barreled Special Release American Single Malt (2022)

Limited Bottle No.: ASM-35767

Proof: 106.8

Age: NAS

Finish: Oloroso Sherry Casks

Source: Jack Daniel's Distillery (Lynchburg, Tennessee)

Price: $59.99

I have been looking forward to this year's special release from Jack Daniel's since they first announced that it would be a 100% malt whiskey. Malt whiskey, whether Scottish, Irish, American, or other, is by far my favorite category of distilled grain spirits. So when Jack Daniel's (JD) decided

to take barley off the bench and let it play, I was ecstatic.

While the world may not have expected Jack Daniel's, one of the most iconic bourbon* distilleries on the planet, to produce a malt whiskey, their decision to explore malt spirits makes sense following the wildfire popularity of the American single malt. Other American distilleries such as Westward, Westland, Balcones, and Stranahan's have been making an enormous impact on the American single malt category; a genre so successful that it would inevitably capture the attention of larger distilleries. Jack Daniel's has been making creative moves in the American whiskey industry for a short while now, releasing a their Single Barrel Barrel Proof Rye in 2020 and Coy Hill in 2021, both of which were tremendous successes. Bottles of prior years' special releases can still be found floating around the secondary market and at the occasional bottle share, and their value has only increased with time. In short, Jack Daniel's has not only been making creative moves, but they have been subtly redefining the industry by adding some flexibility to the somewhat stagnant traditions of goliath American distilleries.

Big distilleries encroaching on traditionally "craft" territory such as the American single malt could go a variety of ways. The two that I can most easily envision are as follows. Big Bourbon's attempts at mastering the American Single Malt could either cheapen the art, or take it to heights never before seen--- perhaps to the point of out-selling and out-distilling the original founders of the category. If JD, Buffalo Trace, MGP, and other heavy hitters start mass-producing single malt whiskeys, they could easily fall into the habit of cutting corners, sourcing poor quality grain, and essentially agreeing to a universal standard of production. Shelves would be flooded with hype-driven, loveless 90-proofers, Buffalo Trace would name theirs Mr./Dr./Colonel-something, and MGP would simply not talk about theirs. (In fact, MGP already distills a single malt product---we just never see it!)

Alternatively, big distilleries could find themselves perfectly suited to single malt distillation, and they could expand upon the success of the category. Such new endeavors may even trigger a long-awaiting healing process for these distilleries, forcing them to slow down and think more about their products for the sake of creating something new and exciting. Jack Daniel's success with rye and its other limited releases suggests that they may stand a chance to succeed in this regard.

Anyway, you've made it this far. Good job! Let's talk about some whiskey.

This is not a fresh crack for me, and I took some time to explore this Twice Barreled Single Malt last night. The result? I did not enjoy it. However, I was in a social environment, and certain conditions can dramatically affect one's perspective, so I am clearing my slate and giving this whiskey a fresh start.

Presentation is a pleasure when it comes to Jack Daniel's special releases. The squat bottle is the same one used for JD's single barrel releases, both at 94 proof and cask strength. In fact, I think the only JD release to use this bottle that isn't a single barrel is the recently released Coy Hill Small Batch, a 375ml exclusive riding on the coattails of Coy Hill Senior's (not it's actual name) success last year. I may be wrong-- I don't care that much. Either way, 2022's special release features the same decorative pseudo-decanter, a thick wood-topped cork, and an indigo blue label scheme that would make imperialist European explorers shit their pants. Everything about it screams, "class."

When I first nosed this, I visibly cringed. The sherry presence is incredibly strong, and the phenolic burnt notes are very exaggerated. I am accustomed to the often delicate sherry finishes found in scotch whisky, and this is nothing like it. Even Edradour, a notoriously over-sherried scotch distillery, would wonder what happened to this poor single malt within Jack Daniel's kinky barrel dungeon. However, my second impression is more forgiving, and the initial shock factor wears off quickly. Stewed cherries and cranberries are richly layered over a relatively neutral malt foundation, not too sour or crisp, but not too dusty and raisin-like. Dry nuts linger in the background, perhaps raw walnuts or chestnuts. The thought of nuts brings trail mix to mind, and the cranberry/craisins note pops out even more prominently. Caramel is present too, along with raspberry-chocolate truffle. I am reminded of a chocolate strawberry jam that I tried once. The sherry ultimately steals the show on the nose, although I wouldn't describe the smells that it produces as particularly wine-like. It isn't a dry Cabernet scent, but more of a processed fruit note. Shock factor aside, this nose is fantastic.

The mouthfeel is very rich, and there are no holes in the body of the spirit. A friend who enjoyed this whiskey more than I did during my first tasting described it similarly. I didn't agree at the time, but I see what he meant now. Barley tends to make for viscous, rich, and full-bodied spirits, so I am not surprised that this single malt fits those descriptions. The taste is very sherry-forward, and the burnt notes show up in droves on the palate. The experience of drinking this whiskey is surprisingly difficult to describe, as there are a few stages that transpire from sip to swallow. At first the malt is clean and delicate, but its delicacy is quickly overtaken by charred, phenolic, and somewhat tannic sherry cask notes. The back palate perceives the whiskey as hotter than I would've expected from the front-palate sensations, but the finish cools it down. Very importantly, the abrasive sherry notes die down after some time in the glass, revealing a glimmer of hope. The finish itself is extremely inoffensive, leaving absolutely no tannic oak reside, but providing a clean, dark, wine-forward aftertaste. What a trip this is.

Closing Impressions:

The same friend mentioned earlier described this as the most complete American single malt that he has ever tried. I can list a dozen American single malt whiskeys straight off the dome that I would rather drink than this on most days. Jack Daniel's first foray into the American single malt category is a success, and I did ultimately enjoy this whiskey a lot. The flavors are bold, embracing the adventurous spirit of the American single malt, and keeping me engaged throughout the entire experience. If anything, Jack Daniel's broke new ground within the genre, producing something that I did not expect, and had not experienced before.

This being said, this is a very weird single malt, and I think it lacks the subtlety that could make it great one day. American single malts are not known for their subtleties, but there is always a balance to be struck between boldness and overkill. The sherry finish on this Tennessee single malt was not very artfully done. Something about the sherry finish was overbearing in a slightly too charry and phenolic way. I love a good sherry bomb, but the relatively neutral malt profile of JD's special release accepted the sharper characteristics of the sherry finish too willingly. If I was blindly given this whiskey, I would probably say that I like it very much, but I have been known to praise whiskey simply for being different. Indeed, this is different, but a more systematic analysis does reveal some rough edges that I hope to see filed down if Jack Daniel's chooses to pursue American single malt distillation further. Even then, the whiskey's redeeming qualities are bountiful, and I would ultimately recommend this to anyone as long as they approach with caution.

Nose: 90

Taste: 85

Finish: 85

Overall: 87/100 [Great! Undoubtedly special, but rough around the edges.]

*yes, it is bourbon