Episode 27: Wild Turkey Master's Keep "Unforgotten"

The Pot Still Column: Episode 27

Wild Turkey Master's Keep "Unforgotten"

Proof: 105

Age: NAS (Blend of 8 to 13 Year Old Whiskeys)

Finish: Rye Casks

Source: Wild Turkey Distillery (Lawrenceburg, Kentucky)

Price: $200.00

When it comes to the distillery's annual, limited edition release, the Master's Keep line, Wild Turkey does not play around in price nor content. Each edition of Master's Keep is distinguished by a unique trait that differentiates it from other Wild Turkey products. Past editions have included secondary finishes, high age statements, and experimental blends. Master's Keep began in 2015 with a 17 year old bourbon, followed by Decades (2017), Revival (2018), Cornerstone Rye (2019), 17 Year Bottled In Bond (2020), and One (2021). The Master's Keep release for 2022, very dramatically dubbed "Unforgotten", is a blend of well-aged bourbons and ryes finished in rye casks. This is the third finished whiskey in the Master's Keep series, as 2018's Master's Keep Revival was finished in sherry casks, and Master's Keep One (2021) was finished in a toasted barrel.

The internet has responded to Master's Keep Unforgotten with mixed reviews, and complaints about the additional finishing in a rye barrel seems to be a theme. I find such complaints ironic because finishing a high-rye whiskey in an ex-rye barrel is one of the most benign forms of secondary aging that I can imagine. Finishing this blend of bourbons and ryes in rye barrels is the equivalent of finishing a sherry wine in an ex-sherry butt. I'm sure it makes a difference, but hardly one unorthodox or shocking enough to cry about.

Regardless of the finish, the base spirit is comprised of an impressive blend of 13 year old bourbons and 8 to 9 year old ryes. The whiskey is proofed down to 52.5% and bottled in the absolutely gorgeous decanter made famous by the Wild Turkey Master's Keep line. The cork weighs about twenty pounds (an approximation), and makes Frey Ranch's corks tremble in their grain-to-glass boots. Put this sucker in a sock and it's game over. Pomp and circumstance are clearly very important to Wild Turkey when it comes to their super premium limited release, and no expense was spared when designing the box and bottle. The fancy presentation is part of the fun, and the aesthetic pleasure that it gives me makes the price tag a little easier to rationalize.

Let's dive into the whiskey which has been sitting in my glass for about 15 minutes at this point. Immediately on the nose, there is no hiding that this is a Wild Turkey product. Classic, slightly tart Wild Turkey notes of dusty barrel house, warm vanilla, and caramel. Additional notes of almond brittle, spicy oak, and bok choy (a light, vegetal flavor) show up as well. The vanilla and oak are definitely the biggest attention seekers of the bunch, and the other notes require some serious digging. I would not describe this nose as particularly complex----it is a no-frills Wild Turkey bourbon at the end of the day----but there is an unmistakable rye backbone.

My first sip gets my taste buds very excited, shocking them into awareness. The proof (105) is great for this whiskey, and I wouldn't change it despite typically preferring higher proofs. Again, there is no doubt that this is a Wild Turkey whiskey. That's great because I love Wild Turkey whiskeys. The rye does come through more strongly on the palate than it did on the nose, and there is a very subtle pickle brine to the profile that I very much enjoy. The construction is very balanced, with no unpleasant ethanol layer at the front of the sip, and no heavy oak residue at the back. The finish is submissive to the flavor, giving way fairly quickly in preparation for the next sip, and lurking on the back of the tongue during its brief appearance. Even when the flavor is gone from the finish, the ghost of an oaky rye spice lingers all around for a short while.

Closing Impression:

I like this! I am not surprised that I like this, and I suspected that I would from the start, but I really do. For fans of Wild Turkey, this will not disappoint, and it is approachable even for those who dislike the flavors of rye. Having most recently tried Master's Keep Decades and Master's Keep One, both of which I did not enjoy at all, 2022's release feels much more balanced. It stays true to the Wild Turkey profile by featuring the dusty wood and caramels present in all their bourbons, but it adds some flair with the inclusion of a rye twist.

Is this worth the $200 retail price set by Wild Turkey? Nope.

This might be worth the money for a Wild Turkey collector or super-fan, but the average drinker will likely feel like they paid too much, or came out even with the transaction at best. I would take an $80 Russell's Reserve Single Barrel pick over this any day of the week when considering the price, but Wild Turkey Unforgotten is an excellent pour that will surely be appreciated by fans of Wild Turkey looking for a slight but not too daring change of pace.

Nose: 84/100 Taste: 86/100

Finish: 86/100

Overall: 85/100 [Great, but not ground-breaking]