Episode 29: Barrell Armida (Batch 3)

The Pot Still Column: Episode 29

Barrell Armida (Batch 3) - Bourbon Finished in Pear, Brandy Rum, and Sicilian Amaro Casks

Proof: 113.9

Age: NAS

Source: Undisclosed TN Distillery, (likely George Dickel)

Price: $89.99

Barrell Bourbon Distillery has been experiencing a rapid ascent to fame since their launch in 2013, and has become one of the most highly-acclaimed independent bottlers and blenders in the industry. Barrell Bourbon is known for producing creatively blended and finished bourbons, ryes, and American whiskeys, and several of their limited edition releases have made serious waves among whiskey aficionados. Last year, Barrell's Seagrass (2021) sent consumers into a temporary frenzy following a glowing review by whiskey reviewer and Total Wine sellout, Fred Minnick. This year's Vantage release has caught some traction as well, and previous releases such as Dovetail (2019) and the American Vatted Malt (2019) have been met with varying levels of excitement. Limited releases such as Barrell's Gold Label and Gray Label whiskeys continue to be in high demand, and it is not uncommon to find privately selected blends and single barrels over 14 years of age.

However, one Barrell Bourbon release that has failed to catch the same level of traction is Barrell Armida, a blend of bourbon whiskeys finished in casks of pear brandy, Jamaican rum, and Sicilian Amaro. The most likely explanation for such a heavily and exotically finished bourbon failing to succeed in a world that loves finished whiskey is that the primary ingredient is sourced from none other than George Dickel (allegedly).

If you're interested in knowing more about Barrell Bourbon's blending program, there are some really great informational videos out there!

I won't bother trying to convince America that George Dickel makes decent whiskey, but I will comment that Barrell's source for Armida does not in any way detract from the blend's quality. If anything, I think the minerality introduced by the Tennessee distillate complements the fruity finishes tremendously. The blenders at Barrell Bourbon know what they're doing, and choosing Dickel (allegedly) as the base spirit for this blend was no accident. Or maybe it was, I don't know-- I don't work for them.

Dickel or Dickel-less, Barrell Armida is an impressively complex spirit with lots to offer to a bourbon consumer body that practically worships finished whiskey. If you don't believe me, look no further than the Four Gate Whiskey Company which has been getting away with selling sourced and finished whiskey (sound familiar?) for $200 per bottle at retail. Joseph Magnus Cigar Blend is a more extensively aged whiskey with a three-part finish similar to Armida, and it regularly sells for over $300. Other brands are coming out with finished options as well, some more recent examples of which are Doc Swinson's, Wild Turkey (the Master's Keep Collection), and Old Elk.

On the nose, Armida is fruity and vibrant, exhibiting notes of just about everything that is written on the label. It is definitely bourbon, and definitely Dickel (allegedly), but the base spirit has been dramatically altered by the multiple layers of secondary finishing. Pear notes reminiscent of Calvados brandy are easily detectable, and a syrupy amalgamation of sweet spices hints at the use of Amaro casks. The rum finish is slightly more difficult to detect, and would probably be impossible to find for bourbon drinkers unfamiliar with the Jamaican spirit. Despite Barrell's use of Jamaican rum barrels, there is no evidence of a high ester spirit being used, and the notes I find align more closely with Guyana rum than a stereotypically funky Jamaican rum. Those notes include soft, tropical fruit (guava?), extremely subtle, industrial, chemical smells, and a buttery roundness unique to rum. As the glass empties, an interesting note of Sprite soda appears, and ground pepper becomes more prominent.

The taste is on a whole different level, popping like one of those fruity boba bubbles sometimes offered as toppings by fancy frozen yogurt shops. Pineapple coats the tongue immediately, bringing me closer to believing that the blenders used Jamaican rum during the finishing process. A complex smoothie of tropical fruits ensues, less acidic than expected. I can still pick out the Dickel base through the fruit (allegedly), and the grainy minerality provides a very nice base for the "wetter" fruit juice flavors. If the experience of drinking this were charted on a line-graph, it would be jagged and erratic, as different flavors pop out jarringly and unexpectedly from sip to swallow.

The cask strength of 113.9 proof is both manageable and hot, presenting with more grace on certain areas of the palate than others. For example, the front of my palate barely notices the heat, but the roof of my mouth is going more and more numb with every sip. The finish is medium in length and slightly drying, but overall very nice. It leaves the tongue with a fruity, waxy coating.

Closing Impression:

I do not understand why more people don't own this whiskey. There is so much going on in both the nose and palate, and it seems to align with the interests of the average American whiskey consumer. Perhaps the price tag is too demanding at nearly $90, but there is no secondary-market-driven price inflation for this bottle, and I have seen it around enough to know that it is available. The once-limited release is now a regular release, so the odds of running into a bottle are not bad, depending on one's location. All things considered, I think $90 is a pretty fair price for the quality that I find in this bottle, especially considering the uncommon finishes. The only down sides are that the whiskey can seem a little thin at times, and the nose takes some digging to explore.

Nose: 77/100

Taste: 90/100

Finish: 86/100

Overall: 84/100 [Good - Above average with some room for improvement]