Episode 7: Westward Cask Strength

The Pot Still Column: Episode 7

Westward Cask Strength American Single Malt Whiskey “K&L Wine Merchants”

Proof: 126.8

Age: NAS (~ 5 Years)

Finish: None

Source: Westward Distillery (Portland, Oregon)

Price: $100.00

Westward distillery of Portland, Oregon has become an increasingly familiar brand in the whiskey scene, appearing more frequently on shelves across the country, and having become one of the favorite targets of independent bottlers looking for exciting single barrels. An exclusive distiller of American single malt whiskey, Westward has expanded its product line to include various exotic finishes, and has received significant attention on account of its prolific single barrel program. One such single barrel has made its way onto my shelves, providing us with the content for this review.

The distillery opened in 2004 amidst the calm before craft distilling took the United States by storm, and was revamped in 2011 after undergoing a change in leadership. The distillery takes a very naturalistic approach to whiskey making, allowing the whiskey to dictate its process, rather than having a set process dictate the whiskey. With nearly two decades of distilling experience under its belt, Westward has mastered the art of the American single malt, paving the way and setting the standard for the young category as it has been since the start. Every Westward whiskey is twice distilled in low-reflux pot stills from a slow-brewed American Ale before it is rested in low-char American oak barrels. The low-reflux pot stills produce a distillate with more congeners— “imperfections” in the distillate, the presence of which correlates positively with density of flavor.

The primary expressions of single malts available from Westward include an unfinished malt, a stout cask finish, and a pinot noir cask finish, although a rum cask finish is on its way. The single barrel program has been known to expand beyond these finishing options as well. Each finish is available at 90 proof, cask strength, or as independently selected single barrels. It should be noted that the cask strength for Westward is regularly over 120 proof and frequently approaches hazmat (140+).

Today's selection is a cask strength single barrel of Westward's unfinished single malt that I picked up at K&L Wine Merchants in San Francisco. The whiskey is a dark red in color, resembling a hibiscus iced tea, and is very obviously viscous at first glance. The bottle design is unique and beautiful, although it sacrifices functionality and bar-friendliness for aesthetic appeal. The glass is noticeably thick, and the bottle's shoulders are diamond shaped, providing for a very elegant presentation. The bottle is custom designed for Westward, featuring a raised logo and opulent brass cork topper. Funnily enough, the brass single barrel label has been applied upside down, only drawing more attention to the resources and creativity behind the bottle design.

Approaching the glass, the nose makes no secret of its presence, wafting strongly in a three-inch radius from the rim of the glass. The primary note is Westward's signature malt presentation, a beery tanginess that balances sweet with savory. Mingling with the malt is citrus rind, acidic and oily, bringing to mind the concentrated zest of a cumquat more than a traditional sweet orange. The interaction of the malt and citrus produces a fresh vegetal or floral scent, somewhere between roses and evergreen needles.

The mouthfeel is rich and confirms the aforementioned viscosity, coating the entire palate with an oily drip. The proof is perfect, objectively hot but showing no sign of ethanol, creating an experience of pure flavor. That's one of the many beauties of malt whiskey--- the final product tends to come out more rounded and uniform than that of non-malts. The ethanol is seamlessly incorporated into the flavor profile, and doesn't fill the cavity of the glass with foul fumes that conceal the flavors beneath. The flavors are not overly complex, although this does not detract from the taste in the slightest, allowing the taster to more fully appreciate what is directly in front of them. The finish is long and oily, carrying with it the full scope of the whiskey's flavors, not just an oaky specter of the pour as is the case for many other whiskeys.

Closing Impressions:

I have thoroughly enjoyed this American single malt from Westward. Every sip is an experience on its own, packed with flavor and not just a means to the bottom of the glass. The unadulterated whiskey was so good that I didn't bother adding water, but it most certainly could take a splash without losing any of its density. I was pleasantly surprised by the whiskey's lack of ethanol at such a high proof, and I enjoyed the beery funk despite it being a rather unusual flavor. This would be an excellent pour for anyone who is looking to transition from scotch to American single malts, bearing the bold, oaky characteristics of bourbon and the delicate floral notes of Scottish malts. I would be less confident recommending this to a newbie to the single malt scene or a delicate palate, as I can easily see a conservative or ill-prepared consumer being put off by Westward's shock factor. This is a challenge for the untrained palate, and a welcome adventure for the flavor junkie.

Nose: 88/100

Taste: 86/100

Finish: 95/100

Overall 90/100