Episode 12: Saint Cloud 13 Year Single Barrel Barrel Proof Bourbon

The Pot Still Column: Episode 12

Saint Cloud 13 Year Single Barrel Barrel Proof Bourbon (9-Muses)

Barrel #9-Muses (Bottle 42)

Proof: 121

Age: 13 Years

Finish: None

Source: undisclosed Kentucky Distillery (likely Buffalo Trace or Bardstown)

Price: $219.99

Why does the difference between a 12 and 13 year bourbon feel so much more significant than one year?? Let's find out how much of a difference it actually makes.

Saint Cloud 13 Year Single Barrel Barrel Proof Bourbon (*takes a breath*) is a sourced blend of Kentucky whiskeys bottled by Saint Cloud Kentucky Bourbon in an undisclosed place from an undisclosed distillery. The company was founded by Ray Walker, a French wine maker who took his many years of spirit-making experience and founded a company that doesn't make it's own spirit. The company, a one-man show run exclusively by Walker himself, emphasizes the influence that Walker's experience in Burgundy has had on the products. While one might have trouble making sense of this claim considering that the products are all unadulterated single barrels made by somebody else, Walker explains the paradox in an interview with The Pot Still Column. The California-native suggests that his experience as a wine-maker refined his palate beyond what most might expect from whiskey producers with no such background in the industry. Thus, Walker's background in wine influences the selection process, ensuring a well thought out and intelligently selected product.

Saint Cloud primarily produces single barrels that it selects from sourced stock and bottles at barrel proof. Each barrel is given a unique name, a creative detail that adds some personality to the selection process. Today's barrel, an older release, has been dubbed "9-Muses," a name that was chosen during a run of Greek mythology themed barrel releases. Walker describes the selection process somewhat poetically, explaining that the barrel names have been frequently inspired by Greek mythology, with traits inherent to the barrels reminding Walker of details from specific stories.

Saint Cloud can be somewhat elusive, demanding high prices at MSRP and thus falling victim to the price-gouging tactics of liquor stores and hoarding tendencies of bourbon collectors. Other times, bottles are stuck in the back of shops as an overly premium product, never to see the light of day. Walker expresses his dismay with such practices, noting that his whiskey is meant to be consumed, not bunkered. Despite its relative lack of availability, Saint Cloud's releases sell out at a faster rate than the company can meet demand, often failing to make it out of the state in which they are released. Of the young brand's many releases, I've only been able to try single barrels of 7 and 13 year distillate, both of which have been stellar.

The company has also recently partnered with artists from around the world to design the labels for Saint Cloud's "X Series" bourbon, once again emphasizing the brand's penchant for creativity. The production of X-Series, a line of experimental whiskeys finished in unique ways, is Walker's foray into the world of production rather than pure sourcing. While many of the experimental whiskey's components are kept off the label, a negative trigger for those who prioritize transparency, Saint Cloud has engaged in some innovative techniques to make the most of its whiskeys. Rumor has it that some barrels are given regular spa-days to influence their aging...

In fact, Walker alludes to the fact that some pre-X Series single barrels have undergone some mad science as well, despite it not being advertised on the label. While some may regard this as a further lack of transparency, Walker views it as more of a hidden gift, taking pleasure in knowing that his brand's consumers are getting more than they bargained for. Next time you find an older release of Saint Cloud bourbon, consider the possibility that you may be holding a pre-release barrel of whackily-finished X-Series at a fraction of the cost. Additionally, Walker has noted that several of the age-statement descriptions on single barrels are pleasantly inaccurate due to the impact of COVID-19 on label-making, often displaying numbers up to a full year lower than the actual age. Your 7 year bourbon might be an 8 year bourbon, and your 13 year bourbon could be up to 14 years old! While I am disenchanted by the ease with which one could misinterpret the brand's wine-maker-turned-distiller origin story, the brand has made the necessary steps to distinguish itself as a unique business model, and I must concede my respect for the barrel selection team's palate.

Finally, Walker has announced that, although it has not yet been released as public knowledge, the next phase for Saint Cloud is contract distilling with privately sourced grains including French wheat and Scottish barley, and unique finishes such as Japanese Mizunara Oak. While the next few releases will continue to be sourced from an unnamed Kentucky distillery, in the next few years the market will begin to see the appearance of Saint Cloud's younger contracted distillate.

Visually, the whiskey is a medium caramel color, and the bottle that contains it is beautifully designed. The sloped shoulders and long neck make for a very aesthetically pleasing presentation, garnished nicely by the custom-designed brass cork topper. The cork topper features a small statue of a running man with wings, likely the Greek god Hermes, and the figure is holding a fleur-de-lis, a probable reference to the founder's time in France. The barrel information is hand-written on the side label, and an ostentatiously placed medallion replaces a front-facing label. If I gave a score for presentation, this would rank very highly, the only downside being the bottle's lack of compatibility with some shelves and bars due to its excessive height. Then again, I don't think Saint Cloud's intention was to have this ultra-premium and ultra-expensive bottle sit on a commercial bar.

The nose on this bourbon is spectacular, coming out of the glass in bold waves with very bright and sweet "classic bourbon" notes. This type of bourbon is difficult to describe, both approachable and well-balanced, but sharp and cutting in its brightness. The term most often used to describe this profile is "sour", but I don't think that the whiskey is sour in the literal sense. The descriptor may come to mind because the bourbon interacts with the palate in a similar fashion to sour foods such as syrupy frozen lemonade concentrate and underripe fruit. Tart might be a better word for the sensation, although it is difficult to describe something exclusive to bourbon with culinary comparisons. While not unrefined, the nose is more grain-forward than oaky, a pleasant surprise when tasting a high age-statement bourbon. The caramel that exists in the nose is not pure caramel, more of a Werther's Original butterscotch or Cadbury Egg. Backing away from the glass a bit, I can pick up traces of bubblegum as well. While Saint Cloud has been very secretive about the source of their distillate, I am almost completely certain that this is an excellent barrel of Buffalo Trace. However, the bottle states that the whiskey was made in a copper pot still, and I believe that Buffalo Trace Distillery uses column stills, so the question remains unanswered.

[**UPDATE: I have confirmed that it is not Buffalo Trace, and that Saint Cloud has no business relationships with Buffalo Trace Distillery.]

The taste is just as good as the nose, a rare occurrence for me, emphasizing the bright and shiny butterscotch note along with vanilla and a very subtle wisp of root-beer or cola. The flavor is extremely dense and the viscosity is perfect, leaving a numbing sensation on the front of the tongue and finishing with a slow, pleasant burn that fades into 13 years worth of oak.

Closing Impression:

To say that a perfect bourbon exists is silly, as bourbons of equal quality can sit on completely opposite ends of the available flavor spectrum. Nonetheless, I am going to get a little silly and proclaim that this is just about as close to a perfect traditional bourbon as it gets. The overall experience is full-bodied and full-flavored, expressing all the refinements of age with none of the overbearing oakiness that often spoils it. The flavor profile is butterscotch-forward and bright, pairing perfectly with the moderately viscous texture and punchy presentation. Despite the beautifully high proof, no ethanol worsens the experience. The price on this bottle is high... too high. Still, the price reflects the quality, and there can be no doubt that this is a quality bourbon. While pricing is more complicated than slapping a tag on a bottle, a fair ask for this bourbon would be somewhere between $100 and $150. If you can find this at a bar or with a friend, grab a sample, as it is worth the price of admission for a single pour.

Nose: 91/100

Taste: 93/100

Finish: 92/100

Overall: 92/100

**Taste is subjective! Your experience with any given bottle may not align perfectly with mine. I am committed to providing you with the most accurate tasting notes I can muster, but how we perceive the presence of those notes may very well be different. Drink with good spirits and an open mind!

[Update: this article was last edited on 09.11.2022 to reflect a more accurate depiction of Saint Cloud Bourbon following an informative interview with founder, Ray Walker]