Episode 25: Glen Scotia Victoriana Cask Strength Single Malt Scotch Whisky

The Pot Still Column: Episode 25

Glen Scotia Victoriana Cask Strength Single Malt Scotch Whisky

Batch: 2021

Proof: 108.4

Age: 10+ years

Finish: Pedro Ximénez (PX) Sherry Casks and Ex-Bourbon

Source: Glen Scotia Distillery (Campbeltown, Scotland)

Price: $89.00

Ah, Campbeltown scotch whisky, the most elusive of Scotland's regional spirits, and an underdiscussed corner of the whiskey world. There isn't a set characteristic that defines Campbeltown whisky, unlike the smoky brine of Islay or the honey and apples of Speyside. While it used to be a far more highly-producing region, Campbeltown is home to only three distilleries in the modern day. The list consists of Glengyle, Springbank, and today's feature, Glen Scotia. Victoriana is Glen Scotia's highly awarded and very limited "Victorian era" cask strength whisky release. The single malt is bottled at a natural cask strength of 54.2%, bears no age statement, and is finished in a combination of ex-bourbon and Pedro Ximénez sherry casks. The result is a refreshing and light, but full-bodied expression unlike much of what one finds in the scotch market.

This may very well be my favorite bottle design for a scotch whisky. The royal gold and green of the box in which it comes draw the eye, and the muted gold lettering printed on the dark green bottle are subtle but attractive.

As I begin to explore the nose, I remember an episode of the Whisky Vault that covered Glen Scotia Victoriana. (For those who don't know, the Whiskey Vault is a YouTube channel with which one should definitely acquaint themselves.) Daniel, one of the most astute and descriptive whisky reviewers on the internet, mentioned that the whisky smelled like cucumber water. I do agree that the single malt is reminiscent of cucumber water, and it comes across as very fresh but not crisp or acidic. The nose is mildly sweet but potent, and I am picking up hints of smoke and mint. I am not sure if this is a peated malt, and the smoke doesn't come across as a distinctly peaty, but there is definitely some sort of smoke or char to be found here. It could be that this is a result of the heavily charred first fill casks used in the finishing process.

While I've made it clear in past reviews that I prefer the experience of nosing a whisky to tasting one, Glen Scotia Victoriana shines tremendously on the palate. There is absolutely nothing wrong with the nose, but the first sip reminds me that this is a cask strength release, and everything is turned up to eleven. The contrast of the char with the cucumber freshness is intriguing, and I am finding myself enjoying the flavor very much. There are also notes of grain and cream, tempting me to compare this to a cucumber and cream cheese sandwich. How very British of me. The malty grain is not purely malt, and it contains a somewhat seedy trait that reminds me of supermarket multi-grain bread with seeds on the crust. The more I dig, the more I encounter the soft scents of sliced sandwich bread. Maybe this is a sandwich.

The texture of the whisky on the palate is a major highlight. It is easy to miss such a little detail among the attention-seeking flavors, but the presentation on the tongue is syrupy and full-bodied, clinging nicely for a long, malty finish. The whisky presents itself most strongly on the central palate, settling equally on the roof of the mouth and top of the tongue. There is very little ethanol to the pour, but each sip leaves a pleasant tingle on the roof of the mouth. The malt finish is so dense that you can taste/smell it with every breath for a full minute following each sip. I would qualify the retro-nasal exhalation as part of the finish, making the finish one of the most enjoyable parts of this pour. At a modest cask strength of 108.4 proof, the whisky drinks firmly but softly. Even so, there is enough flavor and intrigue in each sip to keep the drinker intimately aware of the whisky, soft or not.

Closing Impression:

This is a really nice scotch and an excellent place to start if one is looking for an entry point to Campbeltown whisky. The single malt is crisp and refreshing, but breaks away from the usual malt profiles that I have come to expect from Scottish whiskies. The peat (which I confirmed exists) is very subtle--- more of an accent, so drinkers who prefer unpeated whiskies should not be afraid to give this a try. The nose is excellent, but the flavor is far more concentrated, making this a true sipper rather than an alcoholic air freshener. For less than $90.00, I think this non-age stated whisky is very well priced, and I would strongly encourage those who enjoy a light but dense malt profile to pick up a bottle. Being a limited release, Victoriana can be difficult to come across, but it isn't so rare that it has become impossible to find, and the price has remained uninflated at most stores.

Nose: 82

Taste: 85

Finish: 85

Overall: 84/100