Episode 14: Redbreast Single Pot Still PX Edition

The Pot Still Column: Episode 14

Redbreast Single Pot Still Irish Whiskey PX Edition

Proof: 92

Age: NAS

Finish: Pedro Ximenez Sherry Casks

Source: Redbreast [i.e. Jameson/Midleton Distillery] (County Cork, Ireland)

Price: $87.00

I have not yet reviewed an Irish whiskey on the Column, and I cannot think of a better way to kick things off than with Redbreast Single Pot Still PX Edition Irish Whiskey.

Redbreast is one of the few acclaimed luxury Irish whiskey brands in the American market, a dark place for Irish whiskey dominated by bottom shelf blends that give the category a bad reputation. While it has no trouble keeping pace with other Irish whiskey powerhouses such as Jameson, Bushmills, and Tullamore Dew, Redbreast has developed a reputation among whiskey enthusiasts as a more distinguished and high-end pour. The standard Redbreast 12 and cask strength varietals are extremely popular among American whiskey lovers especially, treating the oak-beaten palate of the average American consumer more kindly than many of the lighter, often watery Irish options. Redbreast is produced in the same location as nearly every other commercial Irish whiskey, Midleton Distillery. Other brands produced at Midleton include Jameson, Powers, the Spot line, Writer's Tears, and The Irishman. So... everyone.

While consumers of scotch whisky may assume that Redbreast is a single malt, the Irish spirit can be best categorized as a "single pot still" whiskey. Single pot still whiskey is a traditional Irish style of production, and the designation is reserved for whiskeys distilled three times in a single copper pot still from a mash of malted and unmalted barley. This shares similarities with single malt scotches in that the distillate comes from one distillery and is made partially of malted barley, but differs by allowing the use of unmalted grain. Beyond that, general Irish whiskey regulations demand that the whiskey must rest for a minimum of three years in oak and be bottled in Ireland. This particular expression, Redbreast PX Edition, is aged for an undisclosed period of additional time in Pedro Ximenez sherry barrels, imparting a dramatic finish to complement the traditional Redbreast profile.

The bottle is constructed of dark green glass that contrasts with the light, straw-colored, and slightly reddish whiskey inside. The nose does not present itself in such a way that one might expect a sherry-finished whiskey to appear. Extremely sweet notes of overripe strawberry, lemon and powdered sugar, and neutral malt come through without any sign of shyness. When I say neutral malt, I am referring to a very pure smell of malted barley that is neither bright, acidic, and crisp like green apples, nor dark, heavy, and musty like mildew and raisins--- just rich, sweet, and grain-forward with satisfying depth.

The proof is absolutely perfect at 92, and this is coming from someone who strongly prefers cask strength. The ABV of 46% provides for a firm but gentle sipping experience at absolutely no cost to the flavor. I can't even imagine what this would taste like at cask strength, as the amount and diversity of flavors present now is astounding. The flavor is a nearly perfect reflection of the nose in all the best ways. The richness of the malted barley carries the rest of the flavors nicely, greeting the palate with a very creamy coating. Redbreast plays a full-contact sport, not letting a single corner of the palate go untouched. The mouthfeel is slightly tingly, like a finely carbonated beverage, and the finish is short and sweet. While the finish does not linger long, it disappears very cleanly, leaving no unpleasant, residual flavors on the tongue. The initial burst of the finish is full of fruit and honey, reminding me of crystalized honey when it dries in the cupboard. Perhaps it is the syrupy chewiness of the whiskey that brings to mind that specific texture.

Closing Impression:

Wow! I cannot believe how good this whiskey is. I am generally not a fan of Irish whiskey, mostly because it is so difficult to find decent expressions among the many bottom-shelfers, but this is nothing less than spectacular. The influence of the PX cask finish was extremely pronounced, but its effects were unexpected, making this a very exciting drinking experience. The tingly feeling left on the tongue was delightful and surprising at such a low proof. The proof itself was perfectly selected, highlighting the rich malty notes to the fullest extent. This is a very sweet whiskey, placing it firmly among what some might qualify as "dessert whiskeys," but its drinkability makes it a pour for all occasions. This limited edition bottling from Redbreast is a contender for best whiskey I've tried in 2022, and it won't be hard to keep it in mind as the year goes on.

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Nose: 96/100

Taste: 97/100

Finish: 91/100

Overall: 95/100