Episode 1: Koval Single Barrel Rye

The Pot Still Column: Episode 1

Koval Single Barrel Rye “Total Wine & More” Cask #6226

Proof: 110

Age: NAS

Finish: None

Source: Koval Distillery (Chicago, Illinois)

Price: $65.00

On deck is a Total Wine & More single barrel selection of Koval Rye. Koval Distillery is a small operation in Chicago, Illinois, focused on very small batch organic spirits. The usual Koval rye bottling is a 40% ABV distilled from 100% rye, and offered for $49.99 USD on their website. The pick that I will be reviewing today is bottled at a much more respectable 55% ABV and carries no age statement. The flagship Koval product line includes a variety of other whiskeys, many of which are comprised of unique or outright unheard-of mashbills. A select few that caught my eye are their Bourbon, Four-Grain, Oat, and Millet whiskeys, the last of which I have only seen once before out of San Diego Distillery in... well, San Diego.

I love seeing 100% rye mashbills. Rye can be a difficult grain to work with from the distiller’s perspective, costing more money, yielding less distillate, and creating a foamy mess in the still. However, rye grain has the potential to be dramatically more expressive and diverse than corn, the most commonly employed grain in American whiskey. The variety of flavors that can be drawn from rye is astounding, and the whiskey world has barely seen the tip of the iceberg. Certain brands such as Balcones, Old Potrero, and ASW Distillery have begun to play around with the unique profiles that rye can provide, but the extent of it is yet unexplored. This is my first Koval whiskey, so I have no previous impressions by which to judge, but the promise of a 100% rye whiskey is alluring.

I am not using my usual glencairn today, foregoing it for a somewhat uncommonly shaped, tulip glass with a stem (see picture above). I was recently told by a friend that tulip-shaped glasses are a bit of a marketing scam, as they actually concentrate the ethanol and other nastiness at the opening of the glass, making it more difficult to dig into the good stuff. I find this to be bullshit-- the stem adds flavor, I swear.

As expected, there is a lot going on here upon first whiff. The nose is dangerously complex— think of wandering through a pine forest and chewing on a dry piece of dark chocolate while holding a bouquet of fennel stems and field flowers. There is a hint of juniper, giving it a gin-like aroma, and suggesting that it might be a perfect option for winter nights.

Digging into the whiskey, I find that the flavor matches the nose identically, bringing forth memories of pine-needle tea, the aromatic vegetal ooze of a freshly broken rose stem, and creamy chai tea lattes. This is a winter rye at its finest. The proof is delectable at 110, normally a few points lower than I prefer, but an excellent choice for this barrel. The finish is short and sweet, leaving no trace of oak or astringency on the tongue---- only a balanced whisper of the entire flavor profile to keep you hanging on the next sip.

I would add water to this, as I am sure it would release the flavors even more, but I find myself looking at the bottom of an empty glass.

Closing Impression:

I would confidently categorize this rye as exceptional. There are no recognizable faults, even after making a concentrated effort of about 20 minutes to find one. The profile is unique and refreshing, full of unusual but approachable flavors, not the least of which is an uncommonly delectable creaminess. If the rest of Koval’s offerings are anything like this, then I have a new distillery to explore.

96/100